take pic and chainlink fence not show

Ok so our hockey games are outside... street hockey... i get ok pics now and then.. but my delema is for about 4' is wood.. then a chainlink fence ontop of it...
normally i go up to the fence and take a pic through it...

but im curious... a guy on our team has a nikon d700. he just aims, shoots, and no chainlink fence...

from what i searched on google.. they say a high F.... like F/4-F/8
anyone have any experience with this?

sorry if it has been asked before... i searched chain link and fence and didnt see much.. saw the one of the lion where he wanted to hide the chainlink fence behind the lion....

im heading out soon so thought id ask first while we get ready...

thanks guys...

Sounds like he is using a shallow depth of field to capture the players and the fence is a blur. The fence is there but just so far out of focus that it isn't visible.

If you shoot with a shallow DOF (wide open), and are fairly close to the fence, it will become so blurred out from the shallow DOF that it will disappear from the photo.
But you have to make sure the focus is where the action is on the other side of the fence and not on the barbed wire.

TeleFragger wrote in post #11353413
A guy on our team has a Nikon D700. he just aims, shoots, and no chainlink fence... From what i searched on Google, they say a high F... like F/4-F/8

Maybe you didn't read far enough?
1. The camera is (almost) irrelevant.
2. What you're looking for is a low f-number (wide aperture) like f/2.8 or wider
(This is a feature of the lens, not of the camera.)
3. What you're actually trying to achieve is a "narrow depth of field."

Narrow depth of field is affected by several factors:
* Aperture (wider is better)
* Focal length (longer is better)
* Distance from sensor to subject
* Distance from subject to foreground/background

So...
1) Get/use a lens with a wide aperture.
2) Set your camera (in either Av or M) to employ the wide aperture
3) Make sure the fence is close to your camera
4) Make sure your subject is far (as possible) from the fence.

Shot at f/3.5 with a short lens (18mm):

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What you need is a long focal length.
If you are pretty close to the fence (say 10ft) you should be able to 'zoom' through it.
A 100-400 is really helpful in doing this

Ian.

saintseminole wrote in post #11353446
Maybe you didn't read far enough?
1. The camera is (almost) irrelevant.
2. What you're looking for is a low f-number (wide aperture) like f/2.8 or wider
(This is a feature of the lens, not of the camera.)
3. What you're actually trying to achieve is a "narrow depth of field."

Narrow depth of field is affected by several factors:
* Aperture (wider is better)
* Focal length (longer is better)
* Distance from sensor to subject
* Distance from subject to foreground/background

So...
1) Get/use a lens with a wide aperture.
2) Set your camera (in either Av or M) to employ the wide aperture
3) Make sure the fence is close to your camera
4) Make sure your subject is far (as possible) from the fence.

Shot at f/3.5 with a short lens (18mm):

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Shot at f/3.2 with a long lens (200mm):

HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif'

I hope that helps.

ok first..

yall are quick!!!!!! appreciate it too...

second.. so if i use my 85mm lens... i can get to 1.8.... so ill try those suggestions..
the guy with the nikon (i know the camera is almost irrelevant)...we are about 15-20' from the fence.. ill grab pics later of the layout... with my kit lens...

so we are up a bit and it is tough to get through the links from that distance with the 85mm...

ill set it as you said..

so
1/500
F/1.8 (or F/2.0)
ISO 100 - maybe 200 but it appears to be bright out...

here is what im dealing with..
now this pic is with my 85mm but it was
F/4.5
1/800
ISO-200

i think i had it on one of the settings where i could set the speed but everything else was on auto... this is when i first got the lens last month... as i have only had my camera for 2 months or so...

today i will probably use M as im getting better acquainted with the settings...

few pics will be up later...
one son with game at 2PM (10 year old they are in first place..)
http://www.leaguelineu​p.com …4562404&divisio​nid=334742

second son is a riout ... 4yrs old... and they get all the kids and break them up in 4's and teach them....

please dont bash the pic.. it was in jpg and freshly new with camera.. no editing... gonna shoot raw today (and jpg) and delete raws that i dont care about....so hopefully some better pics today...

edited...
also only my 85mm will go down below 4 so guess that is my only choice...

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saintseminole wrote in post #11353446
2. What you're looking for is a low f-number (wide aperture) like f/2.8 or wider


I hope that helps.

so now that really messes things up....
guess im not gonna look at the 24-105 now.. being a F/4

my main photography is for my kids sports.. soccer and hockey..
most games are at night so trying to learn the M settings as even auto on iso is setting at 6400 which i didnt realize and i dont have really any great pics...

the 100-400 is on my list to get for soccer... as on a crop body i dont think ill use 400 much... currently my sigma i have used at 300 but not all the time (so 300 is 480 on a crop)

shees trying to get the right lenses for the right pictures is gonna be interesting...

The closer you get to the fence the more it will diffract across your image as to not really be seen. However, keep in mind that even though the fence may "disappear", it will have an impact on your overall IQ. For example, you can do this at a zoo too, but their fencing is usually more dense and you can see the impact on IQ even more than a standard chain link fence will. The fence diffraction (I think that is the term) will reduce contrast and sharpness a bit.

So a small distance between your lens and fence, a lower fstop, and the farther distance of the subject from the fence (thus a longer FL) all come into play in making the fence disappear.

This was taken through a pretty dense fencing at the zoo. A longer focal length (287mm), not so open an aperture (f6.3), and I being close to the fencing made it disappear.

well light was bright.. not sure why.. but i tried my 85mm as it is the only one that will go down in the 2's... but couldnt get pics that were not washed out...

gonna try photoshop to try and get them bright...

here is the bright...

then one that actually came out but fence was still there.. however i wasnt close enough to the fence...

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you're way too far away from the fence...to make it disappear you have to be much, much closer to the fence than you are to the players. (In this picture it looks like the fence is way closer to the players than it is to you...that won't work)

Also, the D700 is a FF camera, whereas you're shooting a cropper...FFs have shallower DOFs. Equipment will play into this somewhat, but your technique needs work.

You should also be using manual focus or the fence will be in focus and not the subject.

Also, I'm not sure why they're washed out...even if you're shooting at f2.8 you could just speed up the shutter or lower the ISO...

mrgooch wrote in post #11358232
You should also be using manual focus or the fence will be in focus and not the subject.

Well, looking at his example, it looks like the player is in focus, not the fence, so I don't think that's the problem...in my opinion, WHERE he is is the problem...

Shallow DOF will make it so objects really close to you may not show up.

As long as you are close to the fence and focused on something not so close to the fence, it should not be too present in the photo.

Example, this was shot through a fence, no cropping or photoshop.

Shot at f8

What you need to do is find a spot where you can put your lens as close to the fence as possible. When I shoot through the fence, I hold the lens hood to the fence so I am as close as possible and try to get the open part of the fence in the center of the lens. this has worked well with the 70-200, 100-400, 300 f/2.8, Sigma 120-300 f/2.8 on any of the camera bodies I have owned.

Bottom line is, if you can't get close to the fence to shoot, you might as well just sit and watch the game.

Here are a few examples.
1)Pitcher

2) Pitcher #2. Night shot through the green netting.

3)T-Ball

4) Caleb rounding third - 70-200 f/2.8 Sigma lens.

Hope these examples help.
Mike