Really basic question, but...

Got it.

So far I've been keeping the RAW.
Great stuff.

Thanks.

It's interesting how the file names come out with the word Copy written by them. Is there any easy way to stop that happening without me looking for ages trying to find it?

This will be my last post tonight - have to go to my real job tomorrow. Though as the airports are probably snowed under I won't be flying anywhere!

Perhaps take my 5D with me

The 'copy' thing never bothers me. I typically rename my keepers. The easiest way to do this is with DPP. The Canon software, Digital Photo Professional. It has a rename option and you can rename hundreds of images in one step. For example, if I'm working on some flower shots. After I get down to the keepers, I move them to the folder for that particular color, or type of flower, and then do a batch rename. I use Lightroom for my cataloging, but there are time where I will change the file names prior to import into Lightroom.

gabers99 wrote in post #11384235
It's interesting how the file names come out with the word Copy written by them. Is there any easy way to stop that happening without me looking for ages trying to find it?

This is oldschool DAM (Digital Asset Management)... For every shoot I have a main folder named with a date/shoot description naming convention. Within that folder I typically have 3 other folders named CR2, TIF, and Web Ready or JPG. When I do a Save As, I save to the appropriate subfolder. This is based on working from Photoshop/Bridge.

Boy, this thread has been busy!

gabers99 wrote in post #11383792
If you wanted to print files onto large sizes, do you adjust the size of your .jpeg to match the size of paper you are printing on, or simply keep the largest size (resolution) possible?

Well, first of all, whether you resize to print larger depends on a few things. First is personal preference, second is the actual image and whether you want to do special processing on the file after resizing it with resampling, like special sharpening, third is what will be doing the printing and what it requires and what kind or processing will be done at the print lab, such as will software handle resizing and sharpening at good levels of quality...

In other words there is no pat answer, just "it depends"...and different people will take different approaches.

Someone mentioned stickies above. In that line here are a couple entries from the FAQ sticky at the top of the section:

Printing and Enlargement FAQ

https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?p=3740438

Second is a discussion of PPI/DPI, which always comes up

https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=83445

And, in general, I'd spend time with the whole FAQ thread:

https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=138533

Well, and here it comes down to you, the image, and what you want to do.

Most of my printing I do without special resizing and processing because my prints fall into the smaller (4x6, 5x7, 8x10) sizes for personal/casual use to medium size (12x16, 12x18) for framing (or 11x14 for matted framing). I find that for those sizes I can get excellent results without special processing so I print them straight out of Lightroom and LR just applies "standard" sharpening and I'm happy.

But, there are two areas that do require attention for me, and they are portraiture and wildlife. Portraits often require some careful selective sharpening and some touching up. I've tried to get a handle on using Lightroom for that but the problem is I don't do professional/formal portraiture, just casual people shots, so I just don't get the practice. Most pros use Photoshop and real work touching up their portraits, including very specific sharpening touches. You may want to resize an image to a specific size/resolution to very carefully do that type of work prior to printing at say 8x10 or larger, just a thought.

Wildlife is, fortunately, easier -- the idea is to apply selective sharpening to a critter and softening to a background, and this is pretty straightforward to do in the Raw processor with brushes, although again Photoshop is a "popular" choice for this as well. For me, I don't know how much of a difference it would make in doing this after resizing -- I guess it's personal preference again. Again, at the sizes I print at it's not so important, just have to crop first.

TGrundvig wrote in post #11383720
In addition to what ChasP505 said, I would suggest that you sharp BEFORE you resize the image.

Uh, what? I always remembered it the other way around...?

SuperHuman21 wrote in post #11482988
Uh, what? I always remembered it the other way around...?

There is the "common consideration" of three types of sharpening. The first, "input sharpening", happens on the pixel/fine detail level to both "fix" the effect of the filter over the sensor and to crispen up the fine detail.

The second is referred to as "creative sharpening" which is often done with selective sharpening of subjects combined with other things such as softening of parts of the image -- this is often done with portraits to retouch faces and other features, and wildlife to enhance the detail of a subject and keep the background smoot.

"Output sharpening is done when you prepare an image for a specific output such as a Web display or a print -- images can often benefit from some type of sharpening for a particular display size, although you want to do all the processing, including Noise Reduction, that you need and keep a close eye on the outcome because this is typically a global thing to make details "pop" for your output.

You will note that if you are shooting jpegs, "input sharpening" is done in-camera and, sometimes people crank up that input sharpening either in camera or in a Raw processor and don't need much more than that.

SuperHuman21 wrote in post #11482988
Uh, what? I always remembered it the other way around...?

I have always read and been told to do software sharpening last. Other than in-camera sharpening, but that's different.