Elements 9 and Canon Digital Photo Pro - 1 Last Time

I'm trying to get this whole processing of an image idea straight in my head. I got my first DSLR (T2i) a couple weeks ago and before that I never really considered altering the photographs that I took with my 'lesser' digital cameras.

I've got both Canon Digital Photo Pro and Elements 9 (although a trial version right now) to work with and have been asking numerous (waaaay too many I know) questions concerning how to use these programs.


After reading the information on this board, here is currently how I view the two programs. Please correct everything I'm wrong about:

- When first looking at RAW pictures, it is probably best to use DPP since it is more 'familiar' with my camera, its picture styles, and its settings when the photo was taken.
- If I can't obtain the look I want using DPP, then there may be times when I want to use Elements 9 to work with my RAW files.
- When I need to make further adjustments to the photograph, or when working with JPEG images, I should use Elements 9.
- Both programs are useful but in different ways: DPP a RAW image converter, and Elements 9 to touch up/have fun/correct photos.
- The best deal going on Elements 9 right now is $73.99 plus a $20 rebate ($53.99 total).


2 Questions:
1) If I save a RAW file with DPP and I want to move it to Elements 9 to 'work with', what type of file should I convert it to (TIFF, JPEG) when moving it over to Elements 9?
2) If I want to make changes to a photo and then take it to my local photo shop to print it out, does it have to be in JPEG format?

Again, thank you for all your input and help.

TripleB

I'm no PS wiz by any stretch, but since I'm still learning, but a few months ahead of you, maybe what I say can help a bit. And it's a steep learning curve, I know!

2 Questions:
1) If I save a RAW file with DPP and I want to move it to Elements 9 to 'work with', what type of file should I convert it to (TIFF, JPEG) when moving it over to Elements 9?

My answer: You don't have to convert a .raw file before working with it in PSE9. Here's what I do ... sound like a lot, but very simple: I use the cable from camera to computer to download raw files from camera into DPP.

Next step is to open PSE, and select the files you want to manipulate from DPP. You can choose one or all. This brings the raw files into Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) where WB, adjust exposure, and do some other things can be done.

When the above is good, the file can be pulled into PSE for further processing then save to .jpeg or .tif files. At the end of the process, you still have your .raw file, another file (not sure what it is!) and your finished, saved .jpeg or .tiff. I choose .tif for some reason.

At this point the files are still pretty big. Many times, too large to print at your local drug store or Costco (at least in my experience).

2) If I want to make changes to a photo and then take it to my local photo shop to print it out, does it have to be in JPEG format?

When I want to print, I used Picasa export to reduce the file size to something like 1200 x 800, load to a flash drive, take to local wmart and print. And to specifically answer your question, NO, the printable file doesn't HAVE to be .jpeg. I save and print .tif files mostly.

Hope this helps. It's not really difficult. If I can stumble upon a recipe to get files from camera to a printable file, the process can't be that difficult!

dave

snyderman wrote in post #11409591
And to specifically answer your question, NO, the printable file doesn't HAVE to be .jpeg. I save and print .tif files mostly.

Thank you for taking the time to respond...I appreciate your help.

I may be mistaken, but I thought I heard a buddy of mine (who makes his living as a pro photographer) say that he saved all of his pictures (for years and years) as a TIFF file. Does it make sense to save all your images as a TIFF file instead of as a RAW file?

TripleB

TripleB wrote in post #11409648
Thank you for taking the time to respond...I appreciate your help.

I may be mistaken, but I thought I heard a buddy of mine (who makes his living as a pro photographer) say that he saved all of his pictures (for years and years) as a TIFF file. Does it make sense to save all your images as a TIFF file instead of as a RAW file?

TripleB

last step after completing all other corrections is to save your file to a format that can be sized for printing. .jpeg or .tif both are acceptable.

dave

When outputting from DPP to PSE, I would recommend converting to uncompressed TIFF. Because of the compression involved with JPG you are losing a lot of image data that you can never get back. (Just compare the file sizes -- the JPG will be about 25% the size of the TIFF.) You can always save a JPG version of the image if needed after you complete your editing.

When working in PSE I again recommend staying with TIFF both because of the compression issue, and because when you save a TIFF all of your layers are saved. Once you convert to a JPG all of that layer information is gone, never to be seen again.

You could also save in the native PSD format to preserve layer data, but I like TIFF better because most any image viewing program can display TIFF files.

Regarding printing -- I don't do it that much, but occasionally I take an image to WalMart for printing. (I've had very good luck with their 8x10s.) Their equipment can handle TIFFs just fine. Once I have an image ready for printing I flatten the layers and do a Save As just to keep the file size down. Also, I make sure it is an 8-bit TIFF, because I have found that their equipment doesn't like the 16-bit versions.

I would:

Transfer your image files from the memory card to your computer using the Photo Downloader function in Adobe Bridge. Bridge > File > Get Photos from Camera.

This downloader presents you with several options as to where to save the files, rename them if desired, and more.

Then, open DPP and navigate to your downloaded raw files. Use DPP to do your basic adjustments for WB, brightness, contrast, etc.

If the photos don't need any more adjustments or creative editing, you are done. You have the option to just stop or Convert and Save the raw files as an actual image file, like TIF or JPG. I always save as a 16bit TIF in Adobe RGB color space.

If you feel you need more editing, you can go to Tools > Transfer to Photoshop Elements. By default your raw file will be converted to a 16bit TIF as it's sent to PSE. Do whatever additional editing is needed in PSE and use File > Save As to save the file as a TIF. You can always re-open the TIF, do further editing and save it under a new file name.

You can also always go back to DPP, re-open the original raw file, and start fresh, without harming or doing any permanent changes to the raw file.

Of course, you can stay exclusively in PSE, by selecting your raw file from Bridge, opening it in ACR, and doing your raw adjustments in ACR.

I'd experiment on the same raw file in DPP and ACR to learn the differences, but as I've said before, DPP is a better place to start until you gain more experience.

I think ChasP505 is "spot on" here. If you follow his approach you will have a chance work with both programs without getting overwhelmed with choices, and you will quickly get to the point where you produce some good output.

Just a couple of clarifying points:

If you are working with Windows instead of Mac you will see Organizer instead of Bridge. (I think someone said that PSE9 for Mac did away with Bridge in favor of Organizer?) Also, PSE can not do adjustment layers with 16-bit TIFFs, but I think you can do most anything else. If you try to create an adjustment layer it will offer to convert the image to 8 bit, or in the menu you can select Image > Mode > 8 bit.

Oh, and I don't think that Tools > Transfer to Photoshop Elements is available. DPP will integrate with Photoshop, but I have never been able to get it to "see" Elements. (If it can, someone please tell me how!)

This is starting to be a GREAT thread. My guess is that there are a great many FFs (Forum Folks) who live in DPP/PSE land. Let's keep it going...

Yes please keep this thread going.

I use DPP and Elements 9 with Elements Premier.

I am trying to learn to edit my digital photo's that I started taking using a new Canon T2i with a Nifty Two Fifty zoom lens.

I shoot using RAW and want to learn to take better pictures.

It's a steep learning curve and this is an expensive hobby too. But it gives me something to do with my time since I am retired and bored.

I agree that the combination of the two is great -- I'd call it the best "bang for the buck" combo for a great many photogs who are getting "serious" about their photography and processing, especially for those who are or are considering shooting Raw. The powerful Photoshop tools in Elements, The DPP Raw processor that can make good, quick Raw conversions, the great price (two for the price of one), with the bonus of some powerful Raw tools in Elements' Camera Raw that one can experiment with and maybe go beyond DPP, a not-bad Organizer in Elements -- good stuff!

Sure, your future needs may lead you to tools like Lightroom/Aperture and/or Photoshop CSx...they are powerful tools, but the good news is that the DPP/Elements combo can take you so far that you may never need to move on to the big boys, so you can hold on to your $$!