5DMII Video question...kinda urgent!

Hello everyone,
I know I should ask questions after reading and practicing a lot, but time is not on my side now. I've been offered the opportunity to shoot a promotional "sensual" video for a model and of course I said yes. Only problem is that I am a glam photographer and not video-grapher. LoL... I would appreciate if some of you experienced video guys could help me with what not to do, technically speaking.
It will be indoor, lots of close-ups, not many full body frames. I have a 5DMII + 24-70mm, no tripod and Vegas Movie to edit the video later on. We need in total around 30-40 sec long video.
All I know is go PAL,1/50sec, 25p, tungsten or AWB, not more than ISO1000 and play with the F stop. Obviously I will not hand-hold the camera, so I will have to do lots of different angle takes and cuts since no tripod.
So any help would be really appreciated.
Tnanx and you may be reworded in the G&N section later on with some nice pics and awsome video of a lovely model!!! Hahaha
cheers!

Maybe I am missing something, but if you have no tripod and you will not be hand-holding the camera, who or what will be holding it?

Taking good video with the 5D is so much more involved than FPS, ISO, and shutter speed. How long do you have before you begin filming?

My first suggestion is to see what the lighting is like, then decide how you're going to light it.

That shoot may be tough for a new videographer.

The second is...get a tripod and fluid head. I have all kinds of rigs but if I could only have one accessory, the tripod/fluid head would be it. That's basic, gotta have, equipment.

Ooo guys you are quick!

mflane wrote in post #11430704
Maybe I am missing something, but if you have no tripod and you will not be hand-holding the camera, who or what will be holding it?

Taking good video with the 5D is so much more involved than FPS, ISO, and shutter speed. How long do you have before you begin filming?

Yes, you are missing all the objects that will be available in the room. Table, chair, books etc. Just to avoid hand-shake, I did some testings this week and it works fine like that for this particular video.
I am so aware that it takes much more than what I mentioned above, that is why I am asking. I have 4 more days, Tuesday we shoot. I am reading the Complete Idiots guide for 5DMII video and not sure that I'm gonna make it on time. Hahaha

peter nap wrote in post #11430710
My first suggestion is to see what the lighting is like, then decide how you're going to light it.

That shoot may be tough for a new videographer.

The second is...get a tripod and fluid head. I have all kinds of rigs but if I could only have one accessory, the tripod/fluid head would be it. That's basic, gotta have, equipment.

Oh Peter, some solutions, that's great! Mflane just got me more frustrated and worried!
Well, tomorrow I will be checking the light issue. Basically it is an average apartment with the standard indoor lighting that can be found in every house. I know I have to be creative with the frames I take...
Yes, I am looking to get one of those tripods+fluid heads but it will be next time. Around 500EUR the one I want(and I think I need)costs, so I want to be sure I will be using that and that this is not a one time gig.
Been told that a simple rounded(globe shape)Chinese paper light with some "snail" white light/halogen bulbs could be very helpful, since my subject will be close to the camera. Is that true? Sounds to good to be true...
Any suggestions guys?

Shooting video with a DSLR is like shooting compressed JPEG stills. Try to get everything right in camera and rely less on post production. If have an option to rent a rig (i.e shoulder rig), rent it -- it'll help a lot in making your footage look more professional. Also, practice shooting and review the footage on computer -- there are many things you won't see on your camera LCD.

Shooting Manual:
You must shoot in manual for the best possible result. Set the dial on M. Then make sure you have the follow settings. Otherwise, the camera will kick into auto mode even if you have the dial on M.

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1. Try using ISO 800, not a fractional ISO (e.g. 1250)

2. Look up "picture styles" post: Do not use 'standard setting'. A popular setting is neutral with a few tweaks, There are several schools of thought on this, which is why you should look it up. The video will come out a little bland, but its ready to have the colors enhanced in post processing.

3. Get any support you can; a cheap monopod suck in your front pocket will do. If you have the time/money for fluid head whatnots, that is awesome. One way they got footage for the House episode was using monopods in flag holders worn around the waist.

jetswing wrote in post #11431148
ISO:
Use in native ISOs. That would be 160, 320, 640, 1250, 2500, 5000. Sticking to the native ISO will give you the least noisy image. Using ISO 100 is fine as well.

I thought these (160, 320...) are the 'digitally pushed' ISO's. The natives being 100 > 200 > 400 > 800 > 1600. There is so much info out there on this camera, I don't know what is right anymore.

RWatkins wrote in post #11431185
1. Try using ISO 800, not a fractional ISO (e.g. 1250)

That's not correct. You should be using native ISOs, which are cleaner -- 160, 320, 640, 1250, 2500, 5000. ISO 100 ok too.

For example, ISO 640 will be equal to or cleaner (less noise) than ISO 400.

Check this Emmy winning series by Zacuto. It has the info ISOs.

http://www.zacuto.com/​shootout

jetswing wrote in post #11431241
Check this Emmy winning series by Zacuto. It has the info ISOs.

http://www.zacuto.com/​shootout

Not sure, but I guess the question is why Canon (the maker of the camera) defines these as fractional ISO's ( or 1/3-stop ISO increments) per the custom function menu, whereas the ISO of 100, 200, 400, 800... is defined by Canon as full stop ISO's. Does not make a lot of sense to me that Canon would make the native ISO (and its multiples) something that you need to enable in a custom menu, but for whatever reason give you the non native ISO (and its multiples) as a default setting on the camera when shipped. Again, I stress there is so much counter info on this camera out there, it gets confusing to me.

For me, I'm making two assumptions. 1. Canon will make the native ISO and its full stop multiples the default on the camera (e.g. 100, 200, 400) 2. Canon will not make the native ISO's (w/ the best S/N ratio) a hidden feature that is located under the custom menu settings.

I'm not saying this article is right, but it explains what is going on, as to how I understand it. Might be right, might be wrong, I don't know. But AFAIK, the 1/3 increment ISO's are just the 1 stop ISO's with an extra digital processing added to them.

http://shootintheshot.​joshsilfen.com …canon-hd-dslr-native-iso/

RWatkins wrote in post #11431300
Not sure, but I guess the question is why Canon (the maker of the camera) defines these as fractional ISO's ( or 1/3-stop ISO increments) per the custom function menu, whereas the ISO of 100, 200, 400, 800... is defined by Canon as full stop ISO's. Does not make a lot of sense to me that Canon would make the native ISO (and its multiples) something that you need to enable in a custom menu, but for whatever reason give you the non native ISO (and its multiples) as a default setting on the camera when shipped. Again, I stress there is so much counter info on this camera out there, it gets confusing to me.

I'm not saying this article is right, but it explains what is going on, as to how I understand it. Might be right, might be wrong, I don't know. But AFAIK, the 1/3 increment ISO's are just the 1 stop ISO's with an extra digital processing added to them.

http://shootintheshot.​joshsilfen.com …canon-hd-dslr-native-iso/

You both are somewhat correct.

As per my understanding, the actual native ISOs are 100,200,400,800, etc.

That being said, there is generally less noise at 160,320,640, etc because the camera pulls a higher ISO down. this can be fine if your scene is lit well, but it you have bright highlights they will blow out easier than the true native ISOs.

RWatkins wrote in post #11431300
Not sure, but I guess the question is why Canon (the maker of the camera) defines these as fractional ISO's ( or 1/3-stop ISO increments) per the custom function menu, whereas the ISO of 100, 200, 400, 800... is defined by Canon as full stop ISO's. Does not make a lot of sense to me that Canon would make the native ISO (and its multiples) something that you need to enable in a custom menu, but for whatever reason give you the non native ISO (and its multiples) as a default setting on the camera when shipped. Again, I stress there is so much counter info on this camera out there, it gets confusing to me.

For me, I'm making two assumptions. 1. Canon will make the native ISO and its full stop multiples the default on the camera (e.g. 100, 200, 400) 2. Canon will not make the native ISO's (w/ the best S/N ratio) a hidden feature that is located under the custom menu settings.

I'm not saying this article is right, but it explains what is going on, as to how I understand it. Might be right, might be wrong, I don't know. But AFAIK, the 1/3 increment ISO's are just the 1 stop ISO's with an extra digital processing added to them.

http://shootintheshot.​joshsilfen.com …canon-hd-dslr-native-iso/

oh, oops, I didn't see that URL at the end of your post.

Then....
I guess: +1

JPM Photography wrote in post #11431439
You both are somewhat correct.

As per my understanding, the actual native ISOs are 100,200,400,800, etc.

That being said, there is generally less noise at 160,320,640, etc because the camera pulls a higher ISO down. this can be fine if your scene is lit well, but it you have bright highlights they will blow out easier than the true native ISOs.

I've tried the fraction ISO's as well, but for whatever reason, I find it easier to correct the light balance in Premiere when using ISO's in 1 stop increments. This may be all in my mind though, since I go into it under the assumption that there is extra processing happening at the 1/3 incumbents that is somehow robbing me of data. I can't prove this, just my bias going into it.

Well, the important point is that you should be shooting in ISOs in multiple of 160. They're the cleanest. I don't think anyone's going to argue with that.

Honestly, when I shoot stills photographs, I still reach for 100, 200, 400, etc....don't ask me why

jetswing wrote in post #11431601
Well, the important point is that you should be shooting in ISOs in multiple of 160. They're the cleanest. I don't think anyone's going to argue with that.

Honestly, when I shoot stills photographs, I still reach for 100, 200, 400, etc....don't ask me why

I think shooting at the in-between ISO (or whatever you want to call them) is an option if you want lower noise. But you are likely giving up dynamic range to achieve this. Its not, as you say "should be shooting in ISOs in multiple of 160". This is an option if noise is a consideration, but as photographers, we all know that sometimes dynamic range is more important than noise, and sometimes noise is more important than dynamic range.

In the end, I'd say to shoot at both the full stop ISO's and the 1/3 stop ones, to see what gives you the best output for your situation. There are advantage and disadvantage to each.