jblaschke wrote in post #14988696
I was under the impression that Tamron had two different versions of the 500mm, the later one supposedly far superior.
My Canon 500mm supposedly takes 82mm filters--I can see the threads, which are distinct from the lens cap threads--but the 82mm filter I bought it too thick to fit. The threads look like they'll fit perfectly, but the metal frame itself is maybe half a millimeter too broad to fit past the cap threads. I know I'm missing something. That front element is so big I'd like to protect it...
In thirty years of shooting, buying & selling vintage gear, I've never seen a second (earlier) version of the Tamron 500mm. Just the SP/Adaptall2 model. Maybe I missed it, but I'm only aware of the "55BB" model.
No, I absolutely would not put a "protection" filter on the front of any of these mirror lenses, even it can be fitted with one. Way too likely to compromise image quality.
Yes, on most some filter is supposed to be on the rear, is part of the optical formula. Should have a "Sky" or "Skylight" on there, at the very least. Using these lenses on a digital camera, it might be worthwhile to invest in a high quality multicoated filter for that purpose. I don't think the originally supplied filters were multicoated, which was fine for film but can be a problem with digital (search for discussion of rear element refelction issues with DSLRs).
Mirror lenses are a fixed aperture, so you don't have to worry about stopping down and exposure changes. Many use neutral density filters to reduce light, if needed, which doesn't change DOF at all, just reduces light levels. But, once again, it's fixed and there is no stopping down.
You can use a couple methods to arrive at a correct exposure. The camera doesn't need to "know" what the aperture is... in fact it doesn't really "care".
Use "stop down" metering... which means simply setting your camera to M or Manual mode and choosing your ISO (try 200 or 400 to start with, using f8 lens in broad daylight), and then adjusting your shutter speed until the indicator is centered on the meter scale. Alternatively you also could use a handheld meter and make all the settings directly, keeping in mind that the lens aperture will always be f8 (unless one of those ND filters is fitted).
If using another type of lens that has a variable aperture (such as the macro lens I used for the bee image in the post above), you need to do your metering with the lens stopped down to the aperture you plan to use. Lock in your settings, the you might want to open the aperture back up for focusing, stopping back down at the last moment to take the photo.
Another method is to set your camera to Av or aperture preferred auto exposure mode. Point the camera at your subject and the correct shutter speed should automatically be set. You might need to dial in some + or - Exposure Compensation depending upon the tonality of the subject. If shutter speed is too slow (you'll probably need 1/800 or faster to handhold a 500mm lens on a crop DSLR, 1/500 using it on a full frame camera), adjust your ISO higher. The camera doesn't really care what aperture is set... it simply measures the light coming through the lens and adjusts the shutter speed accordingly.
Using Av, you don't need to do the metering and settings in advance. Just be sure you don't have AE Lock on, and the camera will automatically adjust exposure when you stop the lens down to the desired aperture at the last moment.
Also might be able to use Auto ISO that's now available on some models... but I really don't know. Never tried it. Do note that you give up Exposure Compensation when using Auto ISO.
You can't use any other auto exposure mode on this or any other adapted, manual focus/manual aperture because all other AE modes need to vary the aperture to work.
AFAIK, there have been few mirror/catadioptric zooms offered. It would be a very difficult and expensive design to offer any kind of usable image quality, I imagine... Plus most zooms of the day were no longer than 200mm or 300mm.... While most mirror lenses are 500mm and longer focal lengths, where the "folded light path" gives the greatest advantage for a much more compact and affordable lens design. In other words, there would be little to be gained in size, weight and cost reduction with a cat zoom... while there's a lot of potential to save in all three factors with a long cat telephoto prime.
There were some interesting variations on mirror lenses. Konica offered 1000mm f8 and 2000mm f11 that were far from compact and used a bellows focus mechanism at the rear, but unfortunately meant their minimum focus distance was pretty huge. They also both had variable aperture, using a dial at the rear that moved various size "waterhouse" stops into the light path. That was really a rather brilliant design. There was also a provision for drop-in filters, since the front element was larger than any available filters of the day. The 1000mm cost about the same as a compact car in the mid-1970s.... supposedly only two or three dozen were sold. There were only two of the 2000mm lenses ever made and none were ever sold. I have no idea the cost, it would have been a special order item. I saw one on display at a photography trade show many years ago and it was huge... around 30-35lbs, if I recally correctly.