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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 13 Dec 2010 (Monday) 09:47
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Morris Mini

 
Shasta
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Dec 13, 2010 09:47 |  #1

I'm wondering if anyone can tell me the actual difference between these 2 versions, I'm unclear what advantage one would have over the other, the only thing I see is one says 'digital'.

Thanks in advance.

Morris 11175 Digital Morris Slave Wide
http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …5_Digital_Mini_​Slave.html (external link)

Morris Mini Slave Wide
http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …894-REG/Morris_11173.html (external link)



  
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Benji
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Dec 13, 2010 09:54 |  #2

Usually "digital" means it will ignore the preflash from your speedlight and only fire when the "real" flash fires. "Non-digital" slaves will fire instantly when it senses any burst of light, including the sunshine glinting of off glass!

Benji




  
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Shasta
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Dec 13, 2010 10:53 |  #3

Oh really, that is so interesting. I ordered the cheaper one to try it out so we'll see how it goes. Thank you.



  
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dedsen
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Dec 13, 2010 14:09 |  #4

You do know that you are not going to be able to trigger these with the popup flash on your camera and have them be in sync with the shutter? The popup is always going to emit a pre-flash that is going to fire these slaves too early. If you are using an external flash and have it in the manual mode you will be fine.
They do look interesting and will be fun to play with. I cannot imagine them putting out much light with only 2 AA batteries though. You will have to give us a report on them after you get them.



  
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Shasta
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Dec 13, 2010 14:34 |  #5

No I did not know my pop up would not trigger them, wonder if I could use something like this, and just cable the trigger off these wireless devices. I'm new to lighting, so bear with me.

http://www.dealextreme​.com/details.dx/sku.62​01 (external link)

If not I'll try to find a used SB-600 cheap.



  
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dedsen
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Dec 13, 2010 16:58 |  #6

The inexpensive flash states that it does have a sync port so you would be able to use a radio trigger. The more expensive one says something about having a N MODE and a P MODE. I went to the Morris website and the P MODE is for ignoring the pre-flash and firing on the main flash. I guess that is why it costs more.
Here is their site. This is a different flash but is the only one that explained the N and P terminology.
http://www.themorrisco​mpany.com/Lights/midis​laveflashdi.html (external link)



  
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Shasta
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Dec 13, 2010 17:22 |  #7

Yeah I'm liking the digital one.



  
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TopHatMoments
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Dec 13, 2010 17:39 |  #8

I just wonder, if your camera pre flashes to setup for it's thoughts on exposure and then the main flashes, along with the extra flash, could there be a chance of over exposure?


Canon to PhotoShop, “Beam me up”! LR3 set course for CS5, Warp speed 64!___ ((dpp___/==***^***

  
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Benji
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Dec 14, 2010 07:56 |  #9

TopHatMoments wrote in post #11446502 (external link)
I just wonder, if your camera pre flashes to setup for it's thoughts on exposure and then the main flashes, along with the extra flash, could there be a chance of over exposure?

Yes because the camera assumes the only flash wilthat will fire is its own on board one. If another flash is added it adds to the exposure. If one is going to use the on board unit one should block some or all of it it with a white card. A hand held meter will sure come in handy in these situations.

Benji




  
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Shasta
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Dec 16, 2010 18:11 |  #10

I'm back, B&H is so fast at shipping to Canada, anyway I just received the slave about 1/2 hour ago.

Ok I'll be the first admit I know absolutely nothing about artificial light. Now some comments were this little non digital Morris possibly flashing on a pre flash, well I have no triggers or external full size flash yet. Ok so I'm just using my pop up flash to try it out. How would I know if it's actually flashing before the image is taken, would this be obvious? Because it seems when I activate the shutter it goes off exactly as the image is taken but again I'm a total newb to this lighting thing.

So the set up, just playing around.

Mode: Aperture Priority
Aperture: f/5.6
SS: 1/60
WB: Auto

I never did anything to the camera. Morris is on a small 3.5 ft stand pointing towards the area the camera is taking the picture, directly on the left side of the tripod, I'm not bouncing it or anything.

1) First test, Morris is connected with sync cord, pop up flash down.

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
MIME changed to 'text/html' | Content warning: script


2) Second test, Morris sync cord removed, pop up flash enabled.
IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
MIME changed to 'text/html' | Content warning: script


3) Third test, Morris is turned off, pop up flash enabled.
IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
MIME changed to 'text/html' | Content warning: script


Not much of a difference between 2 & 3 so if the strobe is not contributing most likely it is indeed firing at the split second preflash.. All I did was bring the raws into Phocus exported to Tiff -> Resized in PS -> Jpegs

So heres the results, the Morris appears to be going off correctly on the flash. I don't know how to test otherwise. I put the Morris inside the microwave to the far left but it didn't go off, obviously couldn't see the flash go off.


  
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say_cheese
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Dec 16, 2010 19:08 |  #11

I have a 1962 Morris Mini for sale if interested.


Tools: Canon 5DmkII, Sony a6400, Fujifilm X100V

  
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Shasta
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Dec 16, 2010 20:14 |  #12

^ hhahhaha Awesome.



  
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