How should a display look after calibration?

i see, i use lightroom so it should be fine

hugh650uk wrote in post #11446808
i see, i use lightroom so it should be fine

Yep. You say you edit in the dark, so maybe try a warmer 5800k setting for a while and see if it feels good and your prints match the screen. Give your eyes a chance to get used to it.

I've found with apple displays i've used in past that they have a very washed out blue or bluish pink colour out of the box. I ALWAYS calibrate them immediately, and usually do indeed get a warmer colour aftwards.

What you also need to consider is your own brain. It's a very smart device, and will do colour corrections for you. It gets used to badly calibrated displays, and once they get calibrated properly, we often think the new calibration is off, and want to go back to something we're more used to. Leave it on the current calibration for a few days, if you can, and then flick back to the old one, you'll see that you will have gotten used to the new colour, and the old one will be way off. If you like, then do another calibration and see how it turns out, you may find it much more pleasing.

At the end of the day, colour is subjective to the individual behind the screen!

ChasP505 wrote in post #11446497
Nonsense. The tiny little patch of screen real estate sealed by the sensor gasket doesn't know whether the lights are on or off. The Spyder3 sensors don't know whether the lights are on or off. As I said earlier... it doesn't matter. Just make sure your sensor sits flush to the screen by tilting it back sufficiently.

Isn't this an issue? How many people honestly work in a completely neutral work area with careful attention payed to lighting and the effect it has on your monitor? Even a t-shirt can throw ambient light off and effect color.

but on a notebook you can't really ask for much can you? as long as the money wasted on printing is kept to a absolute minimum, i'm happy! and if I paint a wall grey my wife file for divorce, believe me!

Just found a printing co. here in Old Street, London that for £12 you can use their calibrated EIZO Coloredge to make final adjustments and soft-proof with the profiles of their printers, good if you are doing large and expensive prints, better than get a £60 print wrong isn't it?

tricky500 wrote in post #11459827
Isn't this an issue?

I honestly don't believe it is, with a Spyder3 puck. I still calibrate in a very dim room out of sheer habit, but the Spyder3 puck has a good seal and I don.t think calibrating with lights on or off will affect the profile.

That's not an electronics issue, that's a perceptual issue... In other words, your eyes and brain. Your lights don't affect your monitor in the least, they affect how you perceive the monitor.

It affects your perception of color, but does nothing to the profile created by the calibration device. If the lighting you use when editing is causing problems, you can always modify it. The bottom line is, the only real test of your entire calibration/profiling/​lighting system is that your prints match what you see on the monitor screen.