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Thread started 19 Dec 2010 (Sunday) 14:44
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Spyder 3 Pro Problem

 
Bangtwister
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Dec 19, 2010 14:44 |  #1

Hi people, im looking for a bit of advice, hopefully from another Spyder 3 user.

I'm setting this new Spyder 3 to calibrate my laptop screen. When its done it im left with a greenish tint.

The laptop is 1 year old, and I seem only to adjust the screen brightness only. Its the only control available.

Any ideas what i'm doing wrong?

I have tried setting it up in a completly dark room, and a room with a small night light behind the screen, or even with a room light on.

The results much the same.

Any help gratefully recevied.

Many Thanks


Canon 7D, Canon 400D, Canon G10, Canon G5X, Canon 24 - 70 lens, Canon 50 1.8 lens, Canon 1.4, Tamron 18 - 270, Canon 100mm Macro, Canon 10 - 22 Wide angle, Canon 90 - 300mm, Sigma 24 - 200 2.8, Canon 430EX Speedlight MK 2. Photoshop Elements 12, Lightroom 5, LR Time-lapse 4.

  
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Damo77
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Dec 19, 2010 14:47 |  #2

Can you tell us what white temperature target you're setting?


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Bangtwister
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Dec 19, 2010 14:54 |  #3

Hello, sorry to come across as a bit slow, I'm not sure how I would find that out.

When I run the spyder program it automatically runs through on it's own, not asking any questions.

I'm new to this calibrating lark :)


Canon 7D, Canon 400D, Canon G10, Canon G5X, Canon 24 - 70 lens, Canon 50 1.8 lens, Canon 1.4, Tamron 18 - 270, Canon 100mm Macro, Canon 10 - 22 Wide angle, Canon 90 - 300mm, Sigma 24 - 200 2.8, Canon 430EX Speedlight MK 2. Photoshop Elements 12, Lightroom 5, LR Time-lapse 4.

  
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Bangtwister
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Dec 19, 2010 15:29 as a reply to  @ Bangtwister's post |  #4

GAMMA 2.2

WHITE POINT 6500K

BRIGHTNESS NATIVE

The above settings are what it is calibrated too

Does that help?


Canon 7D, Canon 400D, Canon G10, Canon G5X, Canon 24 - 70 lens, Canon 50 1.8 lens, Canon 1.4, Tamron 18 - 270, Canon 100mm Macro, Canon 10 - 22 Wide angle, Canon 90 - 300mm, Sigma 24 - 200 2.8, Canon 430EX Speedlight MK 2. Photoshop Elements 12, Lightroom 5, LR Time-lapse 4.

  
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ChasP505
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Dec 19, 2010 15:40 as a reply to  @ Bangtwister's post |  #5

You should calibrate it to native white point. Doesn't the Spyder3 Pro setup settings ask you to specify the type of monitor? Select notebook and don't touch any controls except brightness. Make sure the Spyder3 puck sits flush against the screen by tilting back.


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Bangtwister
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Dec 19, 2010 15:55 |  #6

ChasP505 wrote in post #11480114 (external link)
You should calibrate it to native white point. Doesn't the Spyder3 Pro setup settings ask you to specify the type of monitor? Select notebook and don't touch any controls except brightness. Make sure the Spyder3 puck sits flush against the screen by tilting back.

Hello, yes I set it to notebook and made sure it was sitting flush on the screen.

Maybe it has set the screen correctly and its ME at fault? Is there another way some how to double check?

Sorry to be a pain :confused:


Canon 7D, Canon 400D, Canon G10, Canon G5X, Canon 24 - 70 lens, Canon 50 1.8 lens, Canon 1.4, Tamron 18 - 270, Canon 100mm Macro, Canon 10 - 22 Wide angle, Canon 90 - 300mm, Sigma 24 - 200 2.8, Canon 430EX Speedlight MK 2. Photoshop Elements 12, Lightroom 5, LR Time-lapse 4.

  
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*Jayrou
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Dec 20, 2010 07:39 |  #7

I thought mine had a green tint until my eyes calibrated to it, after leaving it and getting used to the change ,it looks normal now and prints are spot on.


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ChasP505
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Dec 20, 2010 09:03 |  #8

Bangtwister wrote in post #11480186 (external link)
Maybe it has set the screen correctly and its ME at fault? Is there another way some how to double check?

Do some test prints and see whether they match your display. But, no laptop display is ideal for color accurate photo editing, even calibrated. You should consider investing in a good external monitor for editing.


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Bangtwister
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Dec 21, 2010 14:07 |  #9

Hey thanks for input everybody. I thought I would update what I found in case some one finds this post in the future.

Keep light pressure on the spider when taking a calibration, I found it would goof up a bit if it was not fully flush.

My old uncalibrated set up was too bright and bluish, while this calibrated screen is not so bright and has green tint. Looks fine and tests fine when printed.

Biggest thing I learnt was as I am running windows 7, the task bar hid the spyder calibration icon which had features I was unaware of. Duh !!! lol

Hope that helps some one. Cheers.


Canon 7D, Canon 400D, Canon G10, Canon G5X, Canon 24 - 70 lens, Canon 50 1.8 lens, Canon 1.4, Tamron 18 - 270, Canon 100mm Macro, Canon 10 - 22 Wide angle, Canon 90 - 300mm, Sigma 24 - 200 2.8, Canon 430EX Speedlight MK 2. Photoshop Elements 12, Lightroom 5, LR Time-lapse 4.

  
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ChasP505
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Dec 21, 2010 16:08 |  #10

Bangtwister wrote in post #11492087 (external link)
Keep light pressure on the spider when taking a calibration, I found it would goof up a bit if it was not fully flush.


The intention is correct, but DON'T apply any pressure on the puck. Just tilt the screen back far enough so it sits flush.

To test what applying pressure does, just press your index finger into the screen.


Chas P
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Bangtwister
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Dec 22, 2010 15:17 |  #11

ChasP505 wrote in post #11492761 (external link)
The intention is correct, but DON'T apply any pressure on the puck. Just tilt the screen back far enough so it sits flush.

To test what applying pressure does, just press your index finger into the screen.



Good point, thanks :)


Canon 7D, Canon 400D, Canon G10, Canon G5X, Canon 24 - 70 lens, Canon 50 1.8 lens, Canon 1.4, Tamron 18 - 270, Canon 100mm Macro, Canon 10 - 22 Wide angle, Canon 90 - 300mm, Sigma 24 - 200 2.8, Canon 430EX Speedlight MK 2. Photoshop Elements 12, Lightroom 5, LR Time-lapse 4.

  
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