I do a lot of table top product photography with pure white backgrounds (or "highlight dropouts" as we called it in the old days of paste-up production...lol) I can tell you from years of direct experience, getting really natural looking pure white backgrounds is (usually) a time consuming and detail oriented process. Mainly because getting the table top surface truly bright enough to blowout causes my products to be drastically overexposed. On the flip side, the skills I've developed in product retouching are quite valuable in putting other subjects onto pure white backgrounds - such as people and large products like cars - whether they were actually shot on white or not.
Shooting on a lighted table surface - meaning a transluscent acrylic surface with lights underneath shooting up - can really make things easier. Personally I don't often do this as I feel it affects the natural chiaroscuro of directional lighting. Good masking software can also be extremely helpful and sometimes all you need.
Beyond that, here's how I do it...
- I shoot in RAW and try to get the image as close to "right" in camera to start with (duh)
- My initial background exposure work is done in ACR (Adobe Camera Raw)
- My first (overall) moves to blowout the background are made with various combinations of the Tone Curve, Effects / Post Crop Vignetting and Targeted Adjustment Tool - which ones and to what degree all depends on the image
- I also use the Adjustment Brush to brighten specific areas
- I then open the image in Photoshop at maximum resolution, in Adobe RGB or Pro Photo color space and 16-Bits/Channel, to preserve the maximum possible image information
- In Photoshop, I usually work in RBG color mode, but occasionally switch to LAB color (which IMO preserves color integrity better when using the dodge/burn tool)
- My first move in PS is simply erasing (to pure white) any artifacts around my primary subject (such as vignetting in the corners, lens contaminants, dirt on the white surface, etc.) This is a pretty fast, down-n-dirty process with the Eraser tool or Freehand Lasso (Just be careful not to erase any of your subject)
- Now I'm ready to start working the details
- For products with fairly well defined edges, I use a combination of the Magic Lasso and Freehand Lasso to select the 'white' background right up to the exact edge of the product
- Next I use the Refine Edge function to clean up the selection (usually set to something like: Smoothness=25, Feather=0.5pxl, Contrast=25)
- At this point I have a decision to make: I can just hit the Delete key and erase everything that is selected, turning the background pure white - OR - if there are subtle shadows from the products that I want to preserve, I have more work to do...
- To preserve subtle but realistic surface shadows, I Invert the selection (so the products are now selected, not the white background) and create a new layer from the selection - this gives me just the products on a new layer, aligned precisely with the original layer, and with a 'transparent' background
- Now I go back to the original layer, and use a combination of the Dodge, Eraser and occasionally the Clone tools to cleanup the surface shadows and get rid of any remaining "grayness" or artifacts in the background
As I said, this procedure is mainly for product photography but people photography is very similar. The hardest area to deal with is usually the hair, and I find very careful - often pixel peeping - use of the
Dodge, Eraser and Clone tools are the best way to get the hair looking right.
Hope this helps.