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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 06 Jan 2011 (Thursday) 19:55
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Portable AC Power Supply - DIY

 
ChasWG
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Jan 06, 2011 19:55 |  #1

So after reading this entire thread: https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=820794 here in this forum, I decided to try my hand at building one myself. And as that thread is about 4 pages long already and buried, I thought I'd do a new one. Thanks for the inspiration Dave!

It was fun and didn't really take me that long. I did a couple of things differently from what Dave F. (tetrode) did with his build. Partly out of necessity and partly because I like to save money where I can.

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5165/5331211905_e59a1c8b6a_z.jpg

One of the first things I noticed was that the Pelican box he used and the one I got are different in that they are all clear now with different colored rubber liners. The only part of it left is the seal between the lid and box. I had to cut that off from the rest of the rubber insert.

Another thing that is different is the inverter itself. It's the same part number as what Dave used in his write up, but mine is longer. It still fits inside the Pelican 1050 box, but it's a tight fit.

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5048/5331190713_82d9ca32cf_z.jpg

There isn't the end room that Dave had the luxury of playing with.

Also, I chose to reuse the plug and switch from the Aims inverter. All I had to do was heat the soilder, pull the wires and then reconnect them after passing the plug and switch through the hole cut in the outside of the box.

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5003/5331295671_a6c8fff021_z.jpg

Another part of the inverter that is different is the end plate. Where as Dave had a plastic end plate mine was made from aluminum and after I cut out enough room so as to easily slide the rest of the inverter into the box and around the switch and plug, the inverter fit nice and snug into the Pelican box. It's held down with a wide strip of heavy duty velcro.

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5241/5331298043_857ffa866c_z.jpg

I also chose to use the heavy, 12 gauge wire that came with the inverter to connect the battery. I believe that is a very important part of any of these constructions. And I think it plays a big part in recycle times.

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5081/5331817164_160f656f53_z.jpg

But the biggest thing I changed was the battery. In this case I used a SLA 2Ah battery that fit very nicely into this new box. The cost of this battery was only $39.99 from a local Batteries Plus. At that price I can have a second or third standing by in my light box. But this could also just be a temp. battery until I get a 5 Ah NiMH C-cell battery pack.

So how did it work? Very well! I didn't do a long term mulitple pop test, but for a battery that had a less than full charge on it from the store, I got more that 50 full power pops before I got tired and the flashes started to annoy everyone at my house including the Parakeet who started screaching! I'm no where done firing tests with this set-up. I'll do some testing after I can get a full recharge on this battery.

But for now, it works well for as little as I spent. Here it is firing off a 100ws strobe.

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5287/5331801584_20e1af6871_z.jpg

180 watt Pure Sine Wave inverter from eBay - $48
Pelican 1050 bought locally - $20
Sealed Lead Acid 2 Ah battery from Batteries Plus - $39.99
Charger for battery from Batteries Plus - $21.99

Chas Gordon
7D Gripped/40D Gripped/10-24/EF24-70 f2.8L/EF70-200 f4L/EF50 f1.8 Mk I/EF85 f1.8
http://www.flickr.com/​photos/chaswg/ (external link)
http://vimeo.com/user9​461302/videos (external link)

  
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TMR ­ Design
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Jan 06, 2011 20:08 |  #2

ChasWG wrote in post #11588500 (external link)
So after reading this entire thread: https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=820794 here in this forum, I decided to try my hand at building one myself. And as that thread is about 4 pages long already and buried, I thought I'd do a new one. Thanks for the inspiration Dave!

It was fun and didn't really take me that long. I did a couple of things differently from what Dave F. (tetrode) did with his build.

QUOTED IMAGE

One of the first things I noticed was that the Pelican box he used and the one I got are different in that they are all clear now with different colored rubber liners. The only part of it left is the seal between the lid and box. I had to cut that off from the rest of the rubber insert.

Another thing that is different is the inverter itself. It's the same part number as what Dave used in his write up, but it's longer. It still fits inside the Pelican 1050 box, but it's a tight fit.

QUOTED IMAGE

There isn't the end room that Dave had the luxury of playing with.

Also, I chose to reuse the plug and switch from the Aims inverter. All I had to do was heat the soilder, pull the wires and then reconnect them after passing the plug and switch through the hole cut in the outside of the box.

QUOTED IMAGE

Another part of the inverter that is different is the end plate. Where as Dave had a plastic end plate mine was made from aluminum and after I cut out enough room so as to easily slide the rest of the inverter into the box and around the switch and plug, the inverter fit nice and snug into the Pelican box. It's held down with wide strip of heavy duty velcro.

QUOTED IMAGE

I also chose to use the heavy, 12 gauge wire that came with the inverter to connect the battery.



But the biggest thing I changed was the battery. In this case I used a SLA 2Ah battery that fit very nicely into this new box. The cost of this battery was only $39.99 from a local Batteries Plus. At that price I can have a second or third standing by in my light box. But this could also just be a temp. battery until I get a 5 Ah NiMH C-cell battery pack.

So how did it work? Very well! I didn't do a long term mulitple pop test, but for a battery that had a less than full charge on it from the store, I got more that 50 full power pops before I got tired and the flashes started to annoy everyone at my house including the Parakeet who started screaching! I'm no where done firing tests with this set-up. I'll do some testing after I can get a full recharge on this battery.

But for now, it works well for as little as I spent. Here it is firing off a 100ws strobe.



180 watt Pure Sine Wave inverter from eBay - $48
Pelican 1050 bought locally - $20
Sealed Lead Acid 2 Ah battery from Batteries Plus - $39.99
Charger for battery from Batteries Plus - $21.99

Nice job Charles. Were you doing this as an experiment or is this something you plan on using to assemble a location kit?


Robert
RobertMitchellPhotogra​phy (external link)

  
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granitestorm
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Jan 06, 2011 20:19 as a reply to  @ TMR Design's post |  #3

That certainly beats the hack-job I did over the weekend, using only junk I could find in my garage. (A motorcycle battery, an inverter, a lunch bag...).

But it powers four strobes for over 700 full pops (which is when I got sick of flashing lights flooding my house). The inverter I used was too small for all four modeling lamps to be on, though.

If nothing else, it was fun.


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ChasWG
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Jan 06, 2011 21:08 |  #4

TMR Design wrote in post #11588590 (external link)
Nice job Charles. Were you doing this as an experiment or is this something you plan on using to assemble a location kit?

Rob, it was meant to be used and as an experiment I guess. At the moment I only have those cheesy 100ws strobes so the 2Ah battery will be fine for now. But I do plan on some larger lights in the future. Maybe a pair of AB800s or others in the 300ws range. I like the idea of this little project, I knew it was something I could do with all the right bits in hand. I'd love have had the 5Ah battery pack, but I wasn't willing to wait for it. I do have a need for using one of these strobes in conjunction with my speedlites coming up, so this PACPS will come in handy.

Another thing I didn't address in the post above was that the wieght of this SLA isn't that great. I'm sure it's heavier than the 10xC battery pack Dave used, but by placing that wieght low on the stand, it only makes the stand more stable too. :D

Oh, and try to see around that overly long mess of mono taps into the back of that strobe. I have to get around to cutting up one of the three RF-602 Tx to cable release port that YN sent me. How many of those can a guy really use? :rolleyes:


Chas Gordon
7D Gripped/40D Gripped/10-24/EF24-70 f2.8L/EF70-200 f4L/EF50 f1.8 Mk I/EF85 f1.8
http://www.flickr.com/​photos/chaswg/ (external link)
http://vimeo.com/user9​461302/videos (external link)

  
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leashypoo
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Joined Aug 2010
Location: Los Angeles, Ca.
     
May 04, 2011 15:16 |  #5

i love it and the cost is SO right but will this fire my BRITEK PS-200h 120ws strobe or would i need to increase the overall size?


:shock: Who do you want SHOT?
http://www.frankiedimo​dica.com (external link)

  
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dezl_dub
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Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
     
May 04, 2011 15:26 as a reply to  @ leashypoo's post |  #6

Excellent job! I need to do something like this


Hi, my name is Derek
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leashypoo
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Location: Los Angeles, Ca.
     
May 04, 2011 15:36 |  #7

dezl_dub wrote in post #12347626 (external link)
Excellent job! I need to do something like this

Im going to, i have to, its to cool to not do


:shock: Who do you want SHOT?
http://www.frankiedimo​dica.com (external link)

  
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Portable AC Power Supply - DIY
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