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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 11 Jan 2011 (Tuesday) 13:33
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474 Full Power Pops! No kidding!

 
toxic
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Jan 12, 2011 15:16 |  #16

ChasWG wrote in post #11620315 (external link)
Wow, thats a lot of test shots of nothing. At a certain point Dave, maybe you should just trigger the light with something other than your camera. A lot of wasted cycles on your shutter just to test a battery that has been tested by the manufacture a lot more than you can.

Thanks for the effort, but save you shutter releases for real images.

The D700 shutter is rated for 150,000 actuations. 500 shots is 0.33% of that. The real-world data and observations (no charge light, recycle times) is worth much more than that negligible cost.

I test things myself when I can. It's not exactly rare for a manufacturer to be overly optimistic.




  
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TMR ­ Design
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Jan 12, 2011 17:05 as a reply to  @ toxic's post |  #17

Using a Pocket Wizard Multi Max would be a nicer solution for pop testing with an intervalometer. :D

But of course, if Dave had a Multi Max I'm sure he would have used it. ;)


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tetrode
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Jan 12, 2011 17:12 |  #18

TMR Design wrote in post #11627059 (external link)
Using a Pocket Wizard Multi Max would be a nicer solution for pop testing with an intervalometer. :D

But of course, if Dave had a Multi Max I'm sure he would have used it. ;)

So very true, Rob. I don't so I didn't. One good thing about using a camera for this type of test is that it's VERY easy to determine the number of pops. I had the 600RX and the D700 pointed at a white wall in a darkened room. A quick scan for the first black frame on the CF card and you know when you've reached the end of the line. Select all the white frames and you've got your number. Not as easy with the MultiMax I wouldn't think.

Dave F.




  
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c2thew
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Jan 12, 2011 17:26 as a reply to  @ post 11626069 |  #19

I just received mine today and I noticed that it doesn't support multiple d-lite 4's due to their bi-voltage internal system. This can support one d-lite 4 without any issues. If the d-lite 4 has a problem, then calumet genesis owners will probably encounter the same situation.

not sure if I should buy another battery pack or upgrade my strobes to einsteins. The reason why i'm not all that ready to jump on with einsteins is because of their limited 1/100 sync speed (I read that somewhere on the forums)

works well so far with one d-lite 4.


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Marloon
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Jan 12, 2011 20:04 |  #20

c2thew wrote in post #11627167 (external link)
I just received mine today and I noticed that it doesn't support multiple d-lite 4's due to their bi-voltage internal system. This can support one d-lite 4 without any issues. If the d-lite 4 has a problem, then calumet genesis owners will probably encounter the same situation.

not sure if I should buy another battery pack or upgrade my strobes to einsteins. The reason why i'm not all that ready to jump on with einsteins is because of their limited 1/100 sync speed (I read that somewhere on the forums)

works well so far with one d-lite 4.

That's weird. With the V1s, I've had proper max sync speeds with the 1D3, 5DII, and 7D. I've also had proper sync speeds with a D700, D300s and D90.


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tetrode
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Jan 12, 2011 21:08 |  #21

c2thew wrote in post #11627167 (external link)
...The reason why i'm not all that ready to jump on with einsteins is because of their limited 1/100 sync speed (I read that somewhere on the forums)...

Someone on the PCB Tech Forum had reported low sync speeds when using a PW FlexTT5 trigger (http://www.paulcbuff-techforum.com/viewtopi​c.php?f=8&t=690 (external link)). Maybe that's what you remember. I have had no sync'ing issues with my Einsteins.

The following image shows a quick test I just performed. Both photos were taken at the 5D Mark II's max sync speed of 1/200 second. The photo on the left is with the Einstein set to maximum power and the one on the right with the Einstein set to minimum power. In other words, the longest and shortest flash durations:

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5008/5350424793_78bd274e0c_o.jpg

The shading to the right should be ignored. The white wall I photographed was not uniformly illuminated. It's a black bar along the bottom you wouldn't want to see and you don't.

Dave F.



  
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ericski
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Jan 12, 2011 21:43 |  #22

I'm the one that has the sync issue. I believe it is my particular Einstein based on using 2 different camera bodies, and various combinations of TT1 or TT5 triggering. Plus I get 1/250 with my PT-04 triggers and others get normal results with the same hardware as what I have.


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tetrode
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Jan 12, 2011 21:47 |  #23

ericski wrote in post #11628984 (external link)
I'm the one that has the sync issue. I believe it is my particular Einstein based on using 2 different camera bodies, and various combinations of TT1 or TT5 triggering. Plus I get 1/250 with my PT-04 triggers and others get normal results with the same hardware as what I have.

So your sync issue hasn't been resolved?

EDIT: I just tested sync performance of one of my Einsteins when triggered by a FlexTT5 with a MiniTT1 on camera. At 1/200 second, I can get a fully illuminated frame when the Einstein's power is set between full and -3 stops. When power drops below that, banding appears which worsens as flash power levels are lowered. At minimum power (-8 stops), a sync speed of 1/100 second is required to get a fully exposed frame. This seems to mimic what you've been experiencing.

Dave F.




  
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spacetime
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Jan 12, 2011 21:58 |  #24

c2thew wrote in post #11627167 (external link)
I just received mine today and I noticed that it doesn't support multiple d-lite 4's due to their bi-voltage internal system. This can support one d-lite 4 without any issues. If the d-lite 4 has a problem, then calumet genesis owners will probably encounter the same situation.

not sure if I should buy another battery pack or upgrade my strobes to einsteins. The reason why i'm not all that ready to jump on with einsteins is because of their limited 1/100 sync speed (I read that somewhere on the forums)

works well so far with one d-lite 4.

What happens when you try to use two d-lites?




  
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ericski
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Jan 12, 2011 22:02 |  #25

tetrode wrote in post #11629017 (external link)
So your sync issue hasn't been resolved?

Dave F.

Unfortunately, no. I haven't tried with the latest Pocket Wizard F/W, though. Might have to try.


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Jan 12, 2011 22:16 |  #26

tetrode wrote in post #11629017 (external link)
So your sync issue hasn't been resolved?

EDIT: I just tested sync performance of one of my Einsteins when triggered by a FlexTT5 with a MiniTT1 on camera. At 1/200 second, I can get a fully illuminated frame when the Einstein's power is set between full and -3 stops. When power drops below that, banding appears which worsens as flash power levels are lowered. At minimum power (-8 stops), a sync speed of 1/100 second is required to get a fully exposed frame. This seems to mimic what you've been experiencing.

Dave F.

This doesn't make sense. I thought the flash duration of the Einsteins shortened as the power level went down, just like for the hotshoe flashes. So why would the sync speed need to drop as the flash duration is decreased? That's a real mind boggler? :confused:


...Leo

  
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ericski
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Jan 12, 2011 22:20 |  #27

ericski wrote in post #11629116 (external link)
Unfortunately, no. I haven't tried with the latest Pocket Wizard F/W, though. Might have to try.

Breaking News!!!

I have to go and post a follow up on PCB's forums. With the latest pocket wizard firmware, I'm now able to get 1/8000 in color mode down to around -4 stops. In action mode I'm only getting 1/320 down to -2 stops. Although I think I can play with the offset and get better.


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tetrode
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Jan 12, 2011 22:24 |  #28

PacAce wrote in post #11629205 (external link)
This doesn't make sense. I thought the flash duration of the Einsteins shortened as the power level went down, just like for the hotshoe flashes. So why would the sync speed need to drop as the flash duration is decreased? That's a real mind boggler? :confused:

A true puzzlement!

Dave F.




  
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PacAce
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Jan 12, 2011 22:28 |  #29

tetrode wrote in post #11629264 (external link)
A true puzzlement!

Dave F.

I'm assuming the dark bar is at the bottom of the frame and not the top, correct? And this only happens when the PW ControlTL remotes are used?


...Leo

  
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dmward
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Jan 12, 2011 22:58 |  #30

Dave,
We like it. Thanks.


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