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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 11 Jan 2011 (Tuesday) 14:25
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Show us your setup and the final result!

 
AnnieMacD
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Dec 28, 2015 09:32 |  #9451


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Dec 28, 2015 10:13 |  #9452


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6D | T3/1100D | EF 85mm f1.8 USM | EF 50mm f1.8 mkII | EF-S 10-18mm IS STM | EF-S 18-55mm IS II | 600EX-RT | YN-E3-RT | PCB B800 |
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BallerStatus
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Dec 28, 2015 11:12 |  #9453

Super simple setup, flipped the flash to the left side for shot below:

IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1574/24027458785_1f12fb95a7_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/CBe1​oM  (external link) Shiner beer setup (external link) by Bridgesphoto (external link), on Flickr

Result:

IMAGE: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5818/23919189042_f408296623_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/CrE6​z5  (external link) IMG_1020 (external link) by Bridgesphoto (external link), on Flickr

2 6D - 35 f1.4L, 135 f2L, 50 f1.8 STM, 85 f1.8
EOS M and M5 - 11-22 f4-5.6 IS, 22 f2
AE-1 Program - FD 50 f1.8
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Dec 28, 2015 19:11 as a reply to  @ AnnieMacD's post |  #9454

Nice shot Annie and the cooker my wife likes also
:-)


Gear List : SLR BODIES: Eos 5, Eos 3, D30 ( GIFT TO SON INLAW) 40D( SOLD) 1DMK3 ( Current Body)
LENSES : 28-105 USM ( WENT WITH D30) 50MM1.8 , 20-35MM F 2.8 L , 17-40MM F 4.0 L , 90MM MACRO F 2.8 TAMRON 75-300 F4-5.6 USM , 200MM MK11 2.8 L , 400mm 5.6L
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MalVeauX
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Dec 28, 2015 20:27 |  #9455

Heya,

Something a little different. I went birding today, and figured I'd do a little "something" on the way back from the ocean as it got darker. I saw something like it before and wanted to try it. The main thing holding me back was getting my EOS-M to work with a wireless shutter that worked via radio, and my standard one that works with all my cameras now works with my EOS-M thanks to an old build of tragic lantern' for EOS-M that allows triggering via audio port and I just set the dampening to be really high so nothing trips it, other than my electronic signal from my wireless shutter release. Works like a charm. Let's me do fun stuff with the wee camera instead of trying to use a big bulky dSLR and big lenses, etc.

Setup:

EOS-M with 22mm F2 pancake lens, step up rings for a CPL (Marumi Super DHG) filter
Pixel Oppilas (generic?) wireless shutter release (dongle on the EOS-M, working thanks to tragic lantern build)
Yongnuo RF603c transceiver (to trigger my flash in the cabin with me)
Yongnuo 560 III in cabin with me at 1/4th power (I held it to bounce in front of me)
Generic double-suction metal mount with a standard tripod stud, hooked the M right to it. Held it strong going 70mph no problem several times.

Camera settings: 1/5s (I wanted it slow to get lots of motion blur, flash duration will be my exposure duration so no blur there), F11, ISO 100.
Note: CPL used, to kill reflections on the windshield, worked great. Also, it acts as a 1 stop ND filter as well, so it helped knock out more light for that long shutter duration.
I pre-focused on the windshield, depth of field does the rest, turned off autofocus.

I did this image later in the day when it was a bit darker so that I could stretch that shutter lower and lower, to get more and more blur. Again, flash duration is my exposure duration on me in the cabin which was basically black at this exposure level, so that took care of that.

Overall, I don't feel like I got the lighting right. I want it more diffuse, softer. But I was having a hard time bouncing it some where that didn't just cast weird shadows, or only light up one side of my face, etc. Will have to experiment in the cab while not driving to find something that works. If anyone has a good idea, I'm all ears!

Flash in the cabin with the remote shutter release:

IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1716/23740003080_faee438488_c.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/CaPH​PW  (external link) a494 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

EOS-M on the mount with all the accessories to pull off the remote release and lighting:

IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1531/23739965160_3ecb6c2646_c.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/CaPw​y9  (external link) a589 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

***************

IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1545/23407332284_2afbeff67b_c.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/BEqG​oy  (external link) IMG_9345 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

***************

Very best,

My Flickr (external link) :: My Astrobin (external link)

  
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steelbluesleepr
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Dec 29, 2015 01:09 |  #9456

PhotosGuy wrote in post #17833045 (external link)
They look pretty good. Add this old trick the next time.

thumbnail
Hosted photo: posted by PhotosGuy in
./showthread.php?p=178​33045&i=i95664916
forum: Flash and Studio Lighting

If you want the ugly look of on camera flash, sure that will work great,


-Jayson- my flickr (external link)
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PhilF
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Post edited over 3 years ago by PhilF. (2 edits in all)
     
Dec 29, 2015 03:24 |  #9457

steelbluesleepr wrote in post #17835809 (external link)
If you want the ugly look of on camera flash, sure that will work great,

funny ... PhotosGuy is actually suggesting that because the child in the pic needs a fill on the eye socket. That's what happens when you angle your modifier TOO HIGH and you get highlights on the T zone of the face ONLY . I see that a lot here. It only makes sense if you really plan to have deep shadows in the eye sockets and it was shot intentionally (like in commercial fashion work)

In my opinion, not a good way to have a modifier too high up especially shooting kids when they move all over the place.


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KaosImagery
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Dec 29, 2015 07:15 |  #9458

MalVeauX wrote in post #17835608 (external link)
Heya,

Something a little different. I went birding today, and figured I'd do a little "something" on the way back from the ocean as it got darker. I saw something like it before and wanted to try it. The main thing holding me back was getting my EOS-M to work with a wireless shutter that worked via radio, and my standard one that works with all my cameras now works with my EOS-M thanks to an old build of tragic lantern' for EOS-M that allows triggering via audio port and I just set the dampening to be really high so nothing trips it, other than my electronic signal from my wireless shutter release. Works like a charm. Let's me do fun stuff with the wee camera instead of trying to use a big bulky dSLR and big lenses, etc.

Setup:

EOS-M with 22mm F2 pancake lens, step up rings for a CPL (Marumi Super DHG) filter
Pixel Oppilas (generic?) wireless shutter release (dongle on the EOS-M, working thanks to tragic lantern build)
Yongnuo RF603c transceiver (to trigger my flash in the cabin with me)
Yongnuo 560 III in cabin with me at 1/4th power (I held it to bounce in front of me)
Generic double-suction metal mount with a standard tripod stud, hooked the M right to it. Held it strong going 70mph no problem several times.

Camera settings: 1/5s (I wanted it slow to get lots of motion blur, flash duration will be my exposure duration so no blur there), F11, ISO 100.
Note: CPL used, to kill reflections on the windshield, worked great. Also, it acts as a 1 stop ND filter as well, so it helped knock out more light for that long shutter duration.
I pre-focused on the windshield, depth of field does the rest, turned off autofocus.

I did this image later in the day when it was a bit darker so that I could stretch that shutter lower and lower, to get more and more blur. Again, flash duration is my exposure duration on me in the cabin which was basically black at this exposure level, so that took care of that.

Overall, I don't feel like I got the lighting right. I want it more diffuse, softer. But I was having a hard time bouncing it some where that didn't just cast weird shadows, or only light up one side of my face, etc. Will have to experiment in the cab while not driving to find something that works. If anyone has a good idea, I'm all ears!

Flash in the cabin with the remote shutter release:

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/CaPH​PW  (external link) a494 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

EOS-M on the mount with all the accessories to pull off the remote release and lighting:

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/CaPw​y9  (external link) a589 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

***************

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/BEqG​oy  (external link) IMG_9345 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

***************

Very best,

Nice! I did a similar one back in April, similar setup (https://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=17536400)

I opted for a lower point of view, center of the hood on a full size pickup to get a symmetrical look. Took me 20 or so tries until I had a shot I liked, the motion blur was different in every one.


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Gart
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Dec 29, 2015 08:02 |  #9459

MalVeauX wrote in post #17835608 (external link)
Heya,

Something a little different. I went birding today, and figured I'd do a little "something" on the way back from the ocean as it got darker. I saw something like it before and wanted to try it. The main thing holding me back was getting my EOS-M to work with a wireless shutter that worked via radio, and my standard one that works with all my cameras now works with my EOS-M thanks to an old build of tragic lantern' for EOS-M that allows triggering via audio port and I just set the dampening to be really high so nothing trips it, other than my electronic signal from my wireless shutter release. Works like a charm. Let's me do fun stuff with the wee camera instead of trying to use a big bulky dSLR and big lenses, etc.

Setup:

EOS-M with 22mm F2 pancake lens, step up rings for a CPL (Marumi Super DHG) filter
Pixel Oppilas (generic?) wireless shutter release (dongle on the EOS-M, working thanks to tragic lantern build)
Yongnuo RF603c transceiver (to trigger my flash in the cabin with me)
Yongnuo 560 III in cabin with me at 1/4th power (I held it to bounce in front of me)
Generic double-suction metal mount with a standard tripod stud, hooked the M right to it. Held it strong going 70mph no problem several times.

Camera settings: 1/5s (I wanted it slow to get lots of motion blur, flash duration will be my exposure duration so no blur there), F11, ISO 100.
Note: CPL used, to kill reflections on the windshield, worked great. Also, it acts as a 1 stop ND filter as well, so it helped knock out more light for that long shutter duration.
I pre-focused on the windshield, depth of field does the rest, turned off autofocus.

I did this image later in the day when it was a bit darker so that I could stretch that shutter lower and lower, to get more and more blur. Again, flash duration is my exposure duration on me in the cabin which was basically black at this exposure level, so that took care of that.

Overall, I don't feel like I got the lighting right. I want it more diffuse, softer. But I was having a hard time bouncing it some where that didn't just cast weird shadows, or only light up one side of my face, etc. Will have to experiment in the cab while not driving to find something that works. If anyone has a good idea, I'm all ears!

Flash in the cabin with the remote shutter release:

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/CaPH​PW  (external link) a494 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

EOS-M on the mount with all the accessories to pull off the remote release and lighting:

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/CaPw​y9  (external link) a589 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

***************

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/BEqG​oy  (external link) IMG_9345 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

***************

Very best,

Martin,

After Cutwater posted his shots, I felt that I needed to try something similar. But then I seen how expensive some of the mounting hardware can be.

Once I seen the Delkin mount that you have on sale, I thought it would be a good time to attempt this. What I want to do is use a G16 (vs 5D) with a Vello wireless trigger. I am now waiting on a 2.5mm cable to connect the trigger to the camera to see if it works.

The one that is of some concern is the angle of view that the G16 will produce. If it isn't wide enough, I may have to try the 5D with a 16-35 on it (smooth road at slow speed).

I'll post up after I give it a go.

Question though: With the EOS-M, would the 22mm allow to put the complete windscreen in the shot?

Thanks for posting.

Gart




  
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PhotosGuy
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Dec 29, 2015 08:24 |  #9460

steelbluesleepr wrote in post #17835809 (external link)
If you want the ugly look of on camera flash, sure that will work great,

PhilF wrote in post #17835846 (external link)
funny ... PhotosGuy is actually suggesting that because the child in the pic needs a fill on the eye socket. That's what happens when you angle your modifier TOO HIGH and you get highlights on the T zone of the face ONLY . I see that a lot here. It only makes sense if you really plan to have deep shadows in the eye sockets and it was shot intentionally (like in commercial fashion work)

In my opinion, not a good way to have a modifier too high up especially shooting kids when they move all over the place.

Phil gets it!


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MalVeauX
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Dec 29, 2015 14:24 |  #9461

cutwater wrote in post #17835941 (external link)
Nice! I did a similar one back in April, similar setup (https://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=17536400)

I opted for a lower point of view, center of the hood on a full size pickup to get a symmetrical look. Took me 20 or so tries until I had a shot I liked, the motion blur was different in every one.

Yes! I knew I remember seeing something like that a while back. That was an awesome shot. The light in your cabin works very well bounced around.

Did you do a few shots or did one nail it in terms of not getting any motion blur/shake on things like the chassis of your car/mirrors at the low shutter speed? I had to find a super smooth spot in the road to manage it.

Very best,


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KaosImagery
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Dec 29, 2015 14:31 |  #9462

MalVeauX wrote in post #17836430 (external link)
Yes! I knew I remember seeing something like that a while back. That was an awesome shot. The light in your cabin works very well bounced around.

Did you do a few shots or did one nail it in terms of not getting any motion blur/shake on things like the chassis of your car/mirrors at the low shutter speed? I had to find a super smooth spot in the road to manage it.

Very best,

Thank you! Had to take 20+ shots, yes some were blurry but I was going less than 30 mph on my road which is pretty smooth. That truck had light silver gray interior including the headliner so the light bounced well.

Some parts of my road have tree cover, some don't, I liked the tree cover ones better, helped fill in the frame.

Winter up here so no more externally mounted cameras for now, but I think I'm going to try setting up the tripod in the back seat and doing a shot out over the hood :)


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MalVeauX
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Post edited over 3 years ago by MalVeauX.
     
Dec 29, 2015 14:34 |  #9463

Gart wrote in post #17835973 (external link)
Martin,

After Cutwater posted his shots, I felt that I needed to try something similar. But then I seen how expensive some of the mounting hardware can be.

Once I seen the Delkin mount that you have on sale, I thought it would be a good time to attempt this. What I want to do is use a G16 (vs 5D) with a Vello wireless trigger. I am now waiting on a 2.5mm cable to connect the trigger to the camera to see if it works.

The one that is of some concern is the angle of view that the G16 will produce. If it isn't wide enough, I may have to try the 5D with a 16-35 on it (smooth road at slow speed).

I'll post up after I give it a go.

Question though: With the EOS-M, would the 22mm allow to put the complete windscreen in the shot?

Thanks for posting.

Gart

Heya,

Yea, I used a very inexpensive mount. It was maybe $50? There was a 3 suction cup version too for a little more. I wasn't ready to put a dSLR on there with a big lens (I actually picked up a cheap 10D for $40 from KEH that is great for adventure stuff like this and I wouldn't care if it broke, but, it doesn't take EF-S lenses! Doh! So I can't even use a cheap 18-55 kit lens for this kind of stuff, bleh!). So I opted to make my EOS-M work, and it worked great weight wise. The 22mm would get the whole windshield, but not a lot else, if I put it all the way forward and in the center. I will try this again since this was my first attempt. I want to get the shutter even slower too. I will stack some ND filters perhaps. I'll add a 3 stopper with my CPL and go from there.

Here's what I bought, a cheap "Fat Gecko" mount from Amazon. I got the Double version, cost a little more. But this single version will hold my EOS-M or a G16 or something very easy. (LINK) (external link). Primed, so you can return it within 30 days if you don't like it. Again, I bought the double. I wanted the triple, but ultimately I'm glad I didn't (due to cost) and also because I really didn't want to put a big heavy dSLR and big lens on the hood of my truck. I didn't do mine at 30mph... I did it at 70mph, lol.

If my 22mm pancake isn't wide enough, I'll just adapt on a 10-22 and do it wider. I wanted to get more trees and stuff to get more blur. The wider angle will help tolerate more shake/vibration too with a slower shutter speed hopefully. I had to do a few shots to get something relatively sharp.

The G16 is 28mm full frame equivalent on the wide end. My 22mm on APS-C is 35mm full frame equivalent. I think your G16 should do it fine. I'm going to opt for a bit wider on my next attempt with a 10-22 and try it around 16mm or so. Wide, but not ultrawide there (on APS-C). I want to get a lot more tree coverage. I may try ultrawide too.

I just fear that too wide will get less blur as the angle relative to movement during the exposure across the lens is less compared to a more telephoto focal length where that angle during exposure is almost the whole frame. I will try again though.

Very best,


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geo35
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Dec 30, 2015 07:26 |  #9464

katodog wrote in post #11621520 (external link)
Wiped out a ton of photos from Photobucket, then realized too late that most of my shots in this thread were in there. Guess I gotta go through and redo them. Here's the sound-activated paint setup and some results...


IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: NOT FOUND


QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/katodog/7310628​740/  (external link)
May 31 003 (external link) by Ed Durbin (Katodog) (external link), on Flickr

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/katodog/8414872​765/  (external link)
Jan 25 2013 005 (external link) by Ed Durbin (Katodog) (external link), on Flickr

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/katodog/7984277​286/  (external link)
Water 481 (external link) by Ed Durbin (Katodog) (external link), on Flickr

This stuff is amazing!




  
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geo35
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Dec 30, 2015 07:37 |  #9465

AB400's and Yongnuo's...


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Show us your setup and the final result!
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