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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 11 Jan 2011 (Tuesday) 14:25
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Show us your setup and the final result!

 
mhickman
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Jul 14, 2019 12:36 |  #11656

bobbyz wrote in post #18893502 (external link)
I need to get hard light reflectors and use them. Very nice affect here.

golfecho wrote in post #18893431 (external link)
Yep. Terrific!

Thanks! She kept saying she looked “stoic” in her photos, as she’s used to seeing herself smiling in her selfies, but everything about this photo was perfect to me. Here’s another two that were caught while she was flipping her hair and she looks great in them too. Hopefully she’ll feel confident enough to shoot again.

bobbyz wrote in post #18893502 (external link)
I need to get hard light reflectors and use them. Very nice affect here.

Thank you! I also had the big softboxes and tried for that softlight, but so many times it wasn’t enough light and I had to look for shade or wait for the golden hour to shoot. This thing is a game changer, along with the CheetahStand Snub 38.


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Canon EOS R • EOS 6D
Canon RF 35mm f/1.8 IS STM Macro • Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art • Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG APO OS HSM • Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM • Samyang 14mm f/2.8 ED AS IF UMC • Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II
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mhickman
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Jul 14, 2019 12:39 |  #11657

Here’s some more from the same shoot using the CheetahStand Snub 38.


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Canon EOS R • EOS 6D
Canon RF 35mm f/1.8 IS STM Macro • Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art • Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG APO OS HSM • Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM • Samyang 14mm f/2.8 ED AS IF UMC • Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II
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mhickman
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Jul 14, 2019 12:40 |  #11658

Snub 38 again.


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Canon EOS R • EOS 6D
Canon RF 35mm f/1.8 IS STM Macro • Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art • Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG APO OS HSM • Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM • Samyang 14mm f/2.8 ED AS IF UMC • Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II
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Angmo
looks like I picked a bad week to give up halucinagens
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Jul 14, 2019 13:25 as a reply to  @ post 18893502 |  #11659

I like the Elinchrom hard reflectors.

This one from 30+ feet away from the model. 16” “Fireball” reflector


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Nikons, Rolleiflexes, Elinchroms, Billinghams

  
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bobbyz
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Jul 14, 2019 16:05 |  #11660

So should I look at the colt 45 or this cheetahstand snub 38?


5dmk3, 35L, 85L II, 300mm f2.8 IS I, 400mm f5.6
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2, 90mm f2, 50-140mm f2.8

  
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windpig
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Jul 14, 2019 16:08 |  #11661

Angmo wrote in post #18893541 (external link)
I like the Elinchrom hard reflectors.

This one from 30+ feet away from the model. 16” “Fireball” reflector


The Fireball is No ka oi


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mhickman
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Jul 14, 2019 16:38 |  #11662

bobbyz wrote in post #18893623 (external link)
So should I look at the colt 45 or this cheetahstand snub 38?

Colt will give you one foot of spread for each foot of distance and throw the light a little further, whereas the Snub is good spread for closer shots. Both are great in windy conditions compared to an umbrella.


Canon EOS R • EOS 6D
Canon RF 35mm f/1.8 IS STM Macro • Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art • Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG APO OS HSM • Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM • Samyang 14mm f/2.8 ED AS IF UMC • Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II
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PLLphotography
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Post edited 1 month ago by PLLphotography.
     
Jul 14, 2019 17:44 |  #11663

Evertking wrote in post #18893308 (external link)
Don't really have a setup to show but I have some images I'm trying to get some advice on when using OCF. When you set up your ambient how many stop under do you use also what metering mode and where do you meter at?
Thanks.
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forum: Flash and Studio Lighting

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forum: Flash and Studio Lighting


At what distance do you keep you modifier?
In these I am using a AD600 and a 32 Inch SBox.

I didn't see anyone answer yet, so here's what I usually do.

Manual mode (camera and lighting).

I use spot meter and meter the sky (if it's in the photo) so it's properly exposed. Use your shutter speed to to adjust ambient, going higher shutter speed to darken, slower shutter speed to lighten.

Depending on what you are using as far as your off camera flash and your triggers, you can do manual settings on your flash, or try TTL (if available) and let the camera decide. I always go manual. If doing manual, it may take a few test shots to get you where you want to be for your subject. Once you are set, shoot away.

The closer your light source, in this case, your 32" softbox, the softer the light, and subsequently the lower the power you'll need.


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Angmo
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Jul 14, 2019 18:28 |  #11664

windpig wrote in post #18893626 (external link)
The Fireball is No ka oi

Agree!! She made a poster size print. Really nice.


Nikons, Rolleiflexes, Elinchroms, Billinghams

  
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Darkroom ­ images ­ by ­ 616
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Jul 15, 2019 00:29 as a reply to  @ mhickman's post |  #11665

Great job you both did. She is awesome as she does this for the first time.


Photographers are violent people, first they frame you, then they shoot you and after that they hang you on the wall.

  
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bobbyz
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Post edited 1 month ago by bobbyz. (4 edits in all)
     
Jul 15, 2019 14:53 as a reply to  @ post 18893308 |  #11666

I shoot mostly single subjects. My goto modifiers are medium softbox or the 37" SP systems octabox (Elinchrom deep octa clone). Now I shoot mirrorless so I adjust my ambient looking through EVF and add flash. Since I shoot mostly f2, I have to shoot higher than sync speed if it is bright in the back ground. And I can't meter it with my L358 so I just eye ball it. How much ambient/flash, it depends on what I am trying.

brighter ambient

IMAGE: https://www.bobbyzphotography.com/img/s/v-3/p2240840739-6.jpg

darker bg, more flash power

IMAGE: https://www.bobbyzphotography.com/img/s/v-3/p2240840742-6.jpg

More balanced flash/ambient

IMAGE: https://www.bobbyzphotography.com/img/s/v-3/p2240840741-6.jpg

IMAGE: https://www.bobbyzphotography.com/img/s/v-3/p2414466073-6.jpg

Shooting mode wise, I am 100% manual. Strobes in manual mode also though I can use them in TTL mode. Never used spot metering etc. I do use flash meter to check my exposure but only when at or under my max sync speed.

I typically go for little over-exposed face. I also prefer brighter bg than totally dark bg. That's just my style. Even with my camera's very slow sync speed (1/125), I can shoot wider aperture during afternoon by putting the subject in shade and letting bg over-expose.

f2, 1/125, ISO100

IMAGE: https://www.bobbyzphotography.com/img/s/v-3/p2877994293-6.jpg

5dmk3, 35L, 85L II, 300mm f2.8 IS I, 400mm f5.6
Fuji XT-1, 14mm f2.8, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2, 90mm f2, 50-140mm f2.8

  
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windpig
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Jul 15, 2019 16:34 |  #11667

Most excellent, as usual.


Would you like to buy a vowel?
Go ahead, spin the wheel.
flickr (external link)
I'm accross the canal just south of Ballard, the town Seattle usurped in 1907.

  
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dpe
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Jul 19, 2019 04:14 |  #11668

One of the team using flash for the first time in the setup with just a CTO gel

Mike


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UK based photographer specialising in equestrian but also doing things like Prom Photography (external link)

  
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Darkroom ­ images ­ by ­ 616
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Jul 19, 2019 05:57 as a reply to  @ dpe's post |  #11669

I don't know about the background of the first one, it's a personal thing i guess, but the horse and woman are great in that light. Well done


Photographers are violent people, first they frame you, then they shoot you and after that they hang you on the wall.

  
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OZS2KCA
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Jul 30, 2019 20:12 |  #11670

Godox ad400pro & ad200


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