how to make the image sharp like this one?

how to make the image sharp like this one?


http://2.bp.blogspot.c​om …G_9334_2flatten​edTPOD.jpg

Welcome to the forums.

To make your stay here easier, you need to review the site's rules. If that image is not one that you own then you should not embed it on your post. Just post a hyperlink that we can click to view the image.

As for getting a good, sharp image, the main thing you will need is light. Photography is all about capturing light. You can see the shape of the lighting that was used if you look really closely at the reflections in his eyes. Using a flash or strobe not only allows plenty of light but the light is of very short duration so there is less time for blur due to camera or subject movement.

Other than that, there are several technique issues that contribute such as getting sharp images. Get the focus perfect, use a shutter fast enough to prevent motion blur, use an aperture that gets enough in focus, use a low ISO to make sure noise doesn't remove sharpness, etc.

And finally there is post processing on the computer. You must learn to use tools like Photoshop.

krb wrote in post #11649019
As for getting a good, sharp image, the main thing you will need is light.

I wouldn't say that's the main thing needed for sharpness. Try this:

1. Shoot one image under perfect lighting with a cheap, sub-standard lens only approximately focused on the subject.

2. Then shoot the same subject under inadequate lighting using a Canon L-series lens precisely focused on the subject.

Determine which image is sharper, and what was the main thing contributing to that sharpness.

If I had suitable lenses I would take you up on that challenge and we wouldn't even need to handicap the L with bad lighting. A beat up kit lens with the focus a little off against a top of the line L lens with the focus perfect. Shoot both lenses at f/8, 1/200 and ISO 100, a strobe through a softbox to bring the exposure up to correct, resize the images to the same size as the one above and sharpen before uploading.

It won't be the sharpness that gives it away.

krb wrote in post #11649446
It won't be the sharpness that gives it away.

I was replying to your comment, "As for getting a good, sharp image, the main thing you will need is light." The main thing.

Hmmm...a very well composed image, and the eyes are sharp enough, and probably "enhansed" (eyes, face...) with PS. On such a sharp image, one can blur all around the eyes and face using Nik's "Vignette Blur" plugin, placing the "center" option on the bridge of the nose.

I've found full frame cameras give significantly sharper images than crop bodies. The 5D was sharper than my 40D or 7D, though the older 5D I used had a bit of a color cast issue. I moved from a 7D to a D700 and i've never seen images as sharp before.

The image in the OPs post was taken on a 7D.

It all depends on reproduction size. If I were to only, for example, buy a camera to post up 1024x768px images on websites and forums, or print out 4x6 & 5x7's, even a point & shoot could have provided great results, especially given good/controlled lighting.

Where more complex cameras excel is in resolution, which can be handy for larger print sizes (a 5D2 can comfortably print an 11x17 @ 360 dpi) or when shooting under less ideal situations, such as low light, fast action, or both. (broadly speaking)

The image you posted appears very sharp because it's also very small, and had sharpening applied, you could get sharpness like that out of any camera. Now if the image was printed at a large size and you could start counting eyelashes, then a debate between sensor size and shooting conditions would start making sense.
I had images that looked like crap at 100%, with noise, blur, and being generally out of focus, but looked just dandy web-size.

Kolor-Pikker wrote in post #11650836
It all depends on reproduction size. If I were to only, for example, buy a camera to post up 1024x768px images on websites and forums, or print out 4x6 & 5x7's, even a point & shoot could have provided great results, especially given good/controlled lighting.

Where more complex cameras excel is in resolution, which can be handy for larger print sizes (a 5D2 can comfortably print an 11x17 @ 360 dpi) or when shooting under less ideal situations, such as low light, fast action, or both. (broadly speaking)

The image you posted appears very sharp because it's also very small, and had sharpening applied, you could get sharpness like that out of any camera. Now if the image was printed at a large size and you could start counting eyelashes, then a debate between sensor size and shooting conditions would start making sense.
I had images that looked like crap at 100%, with noise, blur, and being generally out of focus, but looked just dandy web-size.

+++1!
All these silly threads lauding the qualities of 640 x 535 images are getting really old.

Sorarse wrote in post #11650649
The image in the OPs post was taken on a 7D.

Damn I wish my 7D could've make images like that.

tim wrote in post #11653353
Damn I wish my 7D could've make images like that.

http://www.thepeopleof​detroit.com/

Get yourself a Canon 50mm 1.4 and ask the guy above how he set up the shot and you just might get that sort of image from your 7d.

Welcome to the forums

Sharpness comes from many, interlaced aspects of taking the photo. You need good light for both the mechanical aspect of being able to achieve accurate focus and for the visual aspect of creating pleasing lighting of your subject.

You also need a stable platform for your shot; tripod preferred but solid hand holding plus image stabilized lens and/or high shutter speed (1/200 and up, IMO) depending on your focal length.

Additionally, using a tripod with mirror lockup enabled on your camera body, plus a remote shutter release of some sort will help eliminate any shaking of the camera caused by touching it or the mirror assembly moving (frequently called "mirror slap").

Your specific example looks like it was done using a large aperture lens (most likely an 85mm 1.8, or similar large aperture), notice how the forefront of his face/head is focused but that area falls off fast at his forehead/chin. Light appears to either be a window with good, natural light coming in or a strobe/flash with a reasonably large diffuser on it to the camera right. Possibly used a reflector on the camera left to fill in shadows better, but I couldn't conclusively say.

50 mm f1.4 at f2.0, 1/200, 400 ISO.

tzalman wrote in post #11661214
50 mm f1.4 at f2.0, 1/200, 400 ISO.

Nice, thanks. Don't have an EXIF viewer on this machine.