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FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon G-series Digital Cameras 
Thread started 15 Sep 2005 (Thursday) 13:55
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External flash with G6

 
twalker294
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Sep 29, 2005 00:43 as a reply to  @ post 801986 |  #16

A couple of years ago I did a flash test with my Olympus E20/FL40 combo and the Omnibounce, Lumiquest Promax, and the bare flash to show the differences in the output from each. Might be worth looking at:

http://www.toddwalker.​net/e20/flashtest/inde​x.htm (external link)

I now have a 10D/420EX and I am planning on doing a similar test. I have recently purchased Gary Fong's Lightsphere II and it's the best flash modifier I've ever tried, so I want to include it as well.

Todd


Todd Walker
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Canon 40D, 10D, G9, SX20IS, and SD500

  
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markubig
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Sep 29, 2005 05:34 as a reply to  @ post 795722 |  #17

kring wrote:
Basically what the flash does is tell the camera, I'm working fine, flash is fully charged, but you should open your shutter to 1 or 2 seconds. Obviously with a shutter speed that long no hand will keep it steady... so the result is terrible pictures. To a novice it seems like the camera is not working because you see the flash and everything appears to be normal, when actually it the flash's batteries causing all your blurry pictures.

what mode are you shooting in? In Av and Tv mode, the camera is metering ambient light and is setting the exposure for ambient light only. it's not taking the flash into consideration. It only uses the flash to fill/illuminate the foreground.


~Mark
Canon 7D |40D
Canon EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM | Tamron SP 70-200 f/2.8 Di VC USD | Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 MACRO USM

Canon Speedlites 580exII, 5800ex

  
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lardyl
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Oct 02, 2005 15:14 as a reply to  @ post 792798 |  #18

markubig wrote:
you could find a used 550ex for $220-$250 if you keep a look-out ... bought mine out of POTN marketplace forum for $225 back in march, I believe, and it was in like-new condition. The only negative would be that it looks enormous mounted on a G6.

yep, and the centre of gravity is way out of the centre of the camera/flash - IME it makes the camera hard to keep vertical....but you can use bounce/the diffuser which is good
- anyone tried it off camera as a slave or with a hotshoe replicating cable?? (or can't that be done?)
...also black flash and silver camera...dear me darlings will just not do....:p




  
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jeffrey ­ r
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Oct 03, 2005 09:18 |  #19

what mode are you shooting in? In Av and Tv mode, the camera is metering ambient light and is setting the exposure for ambient light only. it's not taking the flash into consideration. It only uses the flash to fill/illuminate the foreground.

Mark, if you are around, could you please explain this quote better for a relative newbie. I generally use my G6 in AV mode. I find F4 works best for me indoors, while I tend to use F5.6 outdoors. Are you saying that I am losing some functionality of my 420EX when using my G6 in AV Mode? I may be misreading your post. Does P mode work better with the 420EX? I am not really interested in using Manual mode. Thanks in advance.




  
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superkully
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Oct 03, 2005 10:24 as a reply to  @ jeffrey r's post |  #20

Does anyone use a non-EX flash on their G{5,6}?

I have a Jessops 400AF, which should zoom with, fire its own AF light and generally integrate nicely with EOS system cameras. I've pretty much resigned myself to using it manually now.

Just wondered whether any other paupers were in the same boat as me / had discovered any workarounds.

Cheers.




  
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markubig
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Oct 03, 2005 15:30 as a reply to  @ jeffrey r's post |  #21

jeffrey r wrote:
Mark, if you are around, could you please explain this quote better for a relative newbie. I generally use my G6 in AV mode. I find F4 works best for me indoors, while I tend to use F5.6 outdoors. Are you saying that I am losing some functionality of my 420EX when using my G6 in AV Mode? I may be misreading your post. Does P mode work better with the 420EX? I am not really interested in using Manual mode. Thanks in advance.

Hi Jeff -
You are not losing any functionality of your flash in Av mode. that's just the way it works. You choose the aperture and based on the ambient light, the camera chooses the shutter speed to best expose the shot. It will only fire enough flash to light the foreground.

I am, in no means, an expert either, so instead of me incorrectly explaining anything, here is a quote that I took from the EOS Flash Bible http://photonotes.org …flash/index2.ht​ml#avflash (external link)

(I would suggest reading the above link when you have the time, as it really explains in detail how flash photography works.)

Tv (shutter priority) mode flash.


In this mode the camera lets you change the shutter speed. It then automatically chooses an aperture setting to expose the background correctly. Flash duration (flash output) is determined by the flash metering system. In other words, the camera always works in fill flash mode when it’s in Tv mode - it always tries to expose the background adequately, unlike P mode.
If the maximum aperture value of your lens starts flashing in the viewfinder it means the background of the scene you’re shooting is too dimly lit. If you want to try and expose the background then you should decrease the shutter speed to compensate. Otherwise the camera will just try and expose the foreground with flash and the background will come out dark. Naturally at slower shutter speeds you’ll need to use a tripod to avoid blurring caused by camera shake.
As always, the camera will prevent you from exceeding its built in X-sync speed unless FP mode is available to you and engaged. If the minimum aperture value of your lens starts flashing then your scene is too brightly lit. You must then either engage FP mode if it’s available or perhaps put a neutral density filter on the camera or use slower film. Or turn off flash altogether and simply use a reflector of some type to bounce ambient light onto the subject. The 420EZ and 430EZ flash units will operate in A-TTL mode in Tv mode, but the 540EZ works only in TTL mode. Note also that some people have reported that in this mode their type A camera bodies underexpose the background by up to a stop when light levels are low and an E-TTL flash unit is engaged. If this is the case try testing by comparing the aperture setting with M mode, which does not do this. You may need to apply exposure compensation if this effect exists on your camera and is undesirable.


Av (aperture priority) mode flash.


Av mode lets you set the depth of field by specifying the lens aperture. The camera then chooses a shutter speed ranging from 30 seconds to the camera’s X-sync speed, in order to expose the background correctly. If that means the shutter speed is some really low value so that you need to use a tripod to avoid camera-shake blur, so be it. In dark conditions, therefore, Av mode works in slow sync mode.
Flash duration (flash output) is determined by the flash metering system. Like Tv mode the camera always works in fill flash mode when in Av mode.
There is one exception to this. A number of EOS cameras have a custom function you can set to ensure that the shutter speed in Av mode when using flash is locked to the X-sync speed. The EOS 10/10s and Elan II/EOS 50, for example, have such a custom function, which lets your camera behave more like P mode when in Av mode. However this custom function will only lock the camera to X-sync in Av mode and will not choose a shutter speed from 1/60 sec to X-sync, the way P mode does.
As always, the camera will prevent you from exceeding its built in X-sync speed unless FP mode is available to you and engaged. If the shutter speed value of 30" flashes in the viewfinder then there isn’t enough light to expose the background correctly and you’ll need a larger aperture or faster film. If the camera’s X-sync flashes in the viewfinder then you’ll need to decrease the lens aperture, engage FP mode if it’s available or use slower film. The 420EZ and 430EZ flash units will operate in A-TTL mode in Av mode, but the 540EZ works only in TTL mode. Note also that some people have reported that in this mode their type A camera bodies underexpose the background by up to a stop when light levels are low and an E-TTL flash unit is engaged. If this is the case try testing by comparing the shutter speed setting with M mode, which does not do this. You may need to apply exposure compensation if this effect exists on your camera and is undesirable.






~Mark
Canon 7D |40D
Canon EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM | Tamron SP 70-200 f/2.8 Di VC USD | Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 MACRO USM

Canon Speedlites 580exII, 5800ex

  
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lefturn99
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Oct 03, 2005 19:46 |  #22

That's pretty intersting. What is it, 5 years old? 10? IF the 420ex works on the G6 like those archaic flashes (they don't use black powder, do they?) do on the museum pieces they mention, it would be very informative.

I just think if Canon is going to put a hotshoe on the G6 and sell us a flash for it, they ought to tell us more than how the flash operates on the Canon equivalent of the Argus C3.

It will be intersting to see how they update the manual for the 430ex. Bet it will be EOS this and EOS that.


6D, 5D Mk III, 60D, EOS M, Gear List

  
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jeffrey ­ r
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Oct 04, 2005 09:56 |  #23

Thanks Mark. I've actually already printed out those flash articles, but just haven't had time to read them. Guess I should.




  
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vkalia
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Oct 06, 2005 03:44 as a reply to  @ lefturn99's post |  #24

lefturn99 wrote:
That's pretty intersting. What is it, 5 years old? 10? IF the 420ex works on the G6 like those archaic flashes (they don't use black powder, do they?) do on the museum pieces they mention, it would be very informative.

I just think if Canon is going to put a hotshoe on the G6 and sell us a flash for it, they ought to tell us more than how the flash operates on the Canon equivalent of the Argus C3.

It will be intersting to see how they update the manual for the 430ex. Bet it will be EOS this and EOS that.

The principles of flash photography havent changed over the past 5-10 years any more than the principles of exposure. Whether you shoot with an EOS body or a G6, the concepts are the same.

Once you understand the logic behind how E-TTL works, it makes perfect sense: use camera's shutter/aperture for the background, and the flash for the subject.

The only major update, as I understand it, with E-TTL2 is that the flash metering system no longer gives too much weight to the chosen focus point - this avoids the whole "FEL lock/recompose" dance and is also supposed to yield better results. Just got my 580EX a few days ago, but havent had chance to use it yet, so will have to wait and see about that.

Vandit


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Bosman
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Oct 07, 2005 10:26 as a reply to  @ markubig's post |  #25

markubig wrote:
Hi Jeff -
You are not losing any functionality of your flash in Av mode. that's just the way it works. You choose the aperture and based on the ambient light, the camera chooses the shutter speed to best expose the shot. It will only fire enough flash to light the foreground.

I am, in no means, an expert either, so instead of me incorrectly explaining anything, here is a quote that I took from the EOS Flash Bible http://photonotes.org …flash/index2.ht​ml#avflash (external link)

(I would suggest reading the above link when you have the time, as it really explains in detail how flash photography works.)

Please forgive me but I have read this several times and it still puzzles me.

Here is the confusion "In other words, the camera always works in fill flash mode when it’s in Tv mode - it always tries to expose the background adequately, unlike P mode."

Then comes "
Otherwise the camera will just try and expose the foreground with flash and the background will come out dark."


So does it always work as fill flash or does it just expose the foreground??? Does it expose the foreground in "fill" mode or just like a regular flash?

I have a G6 and a 420ex.

So if I'm outdoors and want a little fill flash in daylight, do I:

Use the camera in AV, or P mode or automatic?
Use the OmniBounce, do I use it straight on since there is nothing to bounce it off?
Reduce the flash output?
Any advice appreciated?


Joe

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Tamron SP AF28-75mm F/2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical (IF)
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420EX
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alex_osu3
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Oct 07, 2005 11:12 as a reply to  @ post 779923 |  #26

Hi,

I am new to this forum. I try to post a new message but can't find a button to do that. So I use the reply method to get around this problem. I just want to know if you and others in this forum have some expereinces using G serials camera to take pictures under microscope.

Thanks,

Li

chen_li3@yahoo.com (external link)




  
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External flash with G6
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