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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos HDR Creation 
Thread started 08 Feb 2011 (Tuesday) 11:43
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POLL: "How do you create HDRs?"
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How do you create HDRs?

 
nepali
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Feb 08, 2011 11:43 |  #1

I searched but couldn't find anything related!

How do you usually create HDRs? Do you use one RAW file or do you use multiple images? I always find it easy to work with one RAW but is there anything wrong with this method?

EDIT:
Well, I guess I wasn't using the right keywords, but, I found this thread after creating mine: https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=826592 :)



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V-Wiz
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Feb 08, 2011 11:47 |  #2

You know i was thinking the exact same thing just a minute ago. :)


Gripped 5D Mark II l 24-105 F/4 L l 70-200 F/4 L l Tokina 12-24 F4 l 50mm 1.8 l Sigma 600 Mirror l B+W KSM CPL l B+W 6stop ND filter l Hitech 0.6 GND l YN-468 Flash l Kenko Pro 300 1.4 TC l Induro Tripod, Vanguard 250 Ballhead.

  
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buggz
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Feb 08, 2011 11:52 |  #3

I've used both one image, and multiple.
Even 'faked' w/ one via exposure slider in ACR, then save as.
I am still using Dynamic Photo HDR from MediaChance mostly.
Sometimes Enfuse or LuminanceHDR.
And sometimes, ALL the above blended.
Shrug, still just playing.


5DMkII, 40D w/ grip, lenses, flashes, more stuff.

  
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TGrundvig
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Feb 08, 2011 12:05 |  #4

Usually 5-7 frames that cover the DR necessary to create the visual statement I am going for. With landscapes, -3 to +3 in EV 'usually' gets the job done. However, with real estate interiors, it is not uncommon to have to shoot -4 to +4 (or even wider) to cover the DR. The wider the DR the more frames you need. Otherwise, the software determines too much of the outcome. The more clean data images you can feed the software, the better the results. Try shooting a 3 frame real estate interior with a DR of -4 to +4 and see what you get. LOL

Each shot is different and there are no 'set' rules for HDR.


1Ds Mk II, 1D Mk II, 50D, 40D, XT (for my son), 17-40L, 24-105L, Bigma 50-500 EX DG, Sigma 150 Macro EX DG, Tokina 12-24 AT-X, Nifty Fifty, Tamron 28-300 (for my son), 580ex II, 430ex II

  
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V-Wiz
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Feb 08, 2011 12:06 |  #5

Ive done HDR with just a single image but it wasnt crazy, just photorealistic nature shots, to bring out the colors. But open to learning.


Gripped 5D Mark II l 24-105 F/4 L l 70-200 F/4 L l Tokina 12-24 F4 l 50mm 1.8 l Sigma 600 Mirror l B+W KSM CPL l B+W 6stop ND filter l Hitech 0.6 GND l YN-468 Flash l Kenko Pro 300 1.4 TC l Induro Tripod, Vanguard 250 Ballhead.

  
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KaosImagery
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Feb 08, 2011 18:01 |  #6

Technically, it's not HDR with a single RAW file...

But I agree with TGrundvig and his explaination.


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Chopper ­ Al
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Feb 08, 2011 18:28 |  #7

I've been using 3 images for my HDR images. I am now playing around with DSLR Remote Pro from Breezesys which allows me to tether my camera to my laptop and have more control over the number of images that the camera takes. I am going to keep an eye out for a netbook to carry around with me to make it a bit easier for doing the greater number of images.

Al




  
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Gary ­ McDuffie
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Feb 08, 2011 19:16 |  #8

TGrundvig wrote in post #11802039 (external link)
Usually Each shot is different and there are no 'set' rules for HDR.

Bingo! But single exposure is not HDR, usually just tonemapping. Yes, you could do VERY mild HDR with a single raw, but then there are several ways to do one that shallow.


Gary
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jason324
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Feb 09, 2011 11:15 |  #9

Here's a video I made explaining the fundemetals of HDR Photography if your interested:

http://www.jhpvideotut​orials.com …dr-photography-explained/ (external link)

More videos on how to process HDR Images Here:
http://www.jhpvideotut​orials.com/tutorials/h​dr-photography/ (external link)

If you have any questions just fire away!!

Best,
Jay


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nepali
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Feb 09, 2011 13:56 |  #10

Guys, when I meant one RAW, I didn't mean one single exposure file. What I've been doing is taking one RAW file and creating three exposures out of it.

Beside me, everyone else is in the "multiple image" route. :) Looks like I will have to change my method. :)



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Gary ­ McDuffie
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Feb 09, 2011 20:08 |  #11

You can't push one raw file to get the needed range in most scenes without bringing up noise in the dark areas, and usually messing up the brights.


Gary
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wolfden
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Feb 09, 2011 20:09 |  #12

Need more than 1 for true HDR, but it all really boils down to what look you want for a finished product. A person can snap 3 images, doesn't mean they captured the dynamic range. Some scenes don't even have dynamic range. So you need to evaluate the scene and decide what you can get out of it.


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TGrundvig
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Feb 09, 2011 20:19 |  #13

Gary McDuffie wrote in post #11811996 (external link)
You can't push one raw file to get the needed range in most scenes without bringing up noise in the dark areas, and usually messing up the brights.

Agreed. Also, you can not recover highlight data from a 0 EV exposure shot if the highlights are actually -2 EV or -3 EV. The data just is not there to recover.


1Ds Mk II, 1D Mk II, 50D, 40D, XT (for my son), 17-40L, 24-105L, Bigma 50-500 EX DG, Sigma 150 Macro EX DG, Tokina 12-24 AT-X, Nifty Fifty, Tamron 28-300 (for my son), 580ex II, 430ex II

  
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BOWEN30D
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Feb 10, 2011 14:05 |  #14

Here are some websites that helped me out a lot when creating HDR’s.

http://www.stuckincust​oms.com/hdr-tutorial-part-2/ (external link)
http://www.cambridgein​colour.com …ls/high-dynamic-range.htm (external link)




  
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kirkt
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Feb 10, 2011 16:05 |  #15

The day is growing nearer when the sensor dynamic range, in combination with the raw conversion process, permits increasing usable dynamic range from a single raw exposure. I'm not saying that we are there yet, but it is inevitable that the common desirable endpoint is a workflow that gives you a single exposure with sufficient useable dynamic range to make an image similar to the way your visual system interpreted the scene. The combination of sensor DR as well as conversion targeted at shadow tone manipulation and noise suppression to name a few things....


As TGrundvig noted, recovering highlight detail where all channels are blown is not possible. However, with the approach of recovering shadows and exposing for highlights, more useable data is available. I have found that, in certain conditions, the 5DMkII and DXO are a combination that starts to make some progress in this regard. Here are some examples of a singe raw conversion, with the output shown straight from DXO, with no further manipulation in photoshop, etc. These are part of the raw conversion thread started by tonylong. In each, I experimented with exposure based on maintaining highlights, ostensibly at the expense of shadows. The DXO lighting module can pull a heck of a lot of detail back out of the shadows, and does a really nice job of controlling noise in these areas. It also helps to have a lot of pixels to work with and a FF sensor.

The first image is okay, as is. The second image I would probably bring into photoshop and blend/edit.

Kirk

Before:

IMAGE: http://kirkt.smugmug.com/Photography/Photo-of-the-Day/MG0116Virtual-Copyafter/1066719638_nUZxq-M.jpg

After:
IMAGE: http://kirkt.smugmug.com/Photography/Photo-of-the-Day/MG0116after/1066721310_UBwPC-M.jpg

Before and after - an extreme example with some serious artifacting (on the gray target, especially), but an example nonetheless:
IMAGE: http://kirkt.smugmug.com/Photography/Photo-of-the-Day/MG0007Comp/1168174831_C3coB-X3.jpg

Kirk
---
images: http://kirkt.smugmug.c​om (external link)

  
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How do you create HDRs?
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