I sense a 12-step program might be needed here. That's lookin' like a case of L-coholism. 
I know I have a pretty long lens list, but it's been over ten years in the making, I don't look specifically for L's or not, and nearly every lens was bought because a project or job required it. I think only two or three were just bought on a whim or because a deal too good to pass up wandered by (and the most recent one of those only set me back $65).
How much do you want for your 28-135? Will it come with the hood?
"Landscapes and surf" as in seascapes, or "landscapes and surfing"? I think folks are assuming the latter. I'm going to assume "seascapes" instead. My favorite landscape and seascape lens on a crop sensor camera is Tokina 12-24/4. Great value... still only $500 new, but used ones can be found for $400 or a little less. 17mm is not wide enough for this sort of thing, on a crop sensor camera. The Tokina is as well built as the Canon 17-40/4L... and better built, equal in IQ and $350 cheaper than the EF-S 10-22mm. You'll need to take a couple steps backwards to make up for the difference between 10mm and 12mm wide, though.
Yes, the 300/4 IS is quite good, even though it's one of Canon's older lens designs now. I use one handheld or on a monopod a lot. It's not quite equal to the 300/2.8 IS, but hey, it's 1/4 the price!
For wildlife, depending upon what size wildlife and how approachable they are, you might also want to get a 1.4X teleconverter to use with the 300/4.
I'd go with the Sigma 50/1.4 or Canon 50/1.4 over the 50/1.2L. They are quite capable... The f1.2 lens is just a whole lot more expensive, heavier, slower focusing. Sure, big glass like that is very cool... I love lenses like that on my collection shelf... But you can get tired of carrying it around.
I have the 135/2... it's a great lens. I mostly use it on full frame, though. But I don't shoot hockey. I do shoot other indoor sports and by far my main user lens for that sort of thing is 70-200/2.8 IS. It's a real workhorse. It's also a lot bigger and heavier than the 135/2, though.
35/1.4L is on my short list of lenses, too... for use on full frame. On crop I use 28/1.8 and 20/2.8, and am happy with those.
430EX.... sure, everyone should have an accessory flash. They are so much better than the wimpy redeye producers built into the camera. I recommend a simple flash bracket and off camera shoe cord, too. This moves the flash further from the lens axis, reducing chance of redeye even more and throws shadows down behind the subject better.
If you plan to use the flash when shooting wildlife, you'll want some sort of flash extender, too.
BG-E7, definitely, I wouldn't want to use the cameras without a vertical grip.
