Daniel,
Thanks for the additional info. Here are a few thoughts:
1. When shooting at night around bright light sources, take the UV filter off your lens. This will help reduce lens flare (bright colored dots of light). Some lens flare is created when light bounces between your lens and the filter in front of it.
2. Watch how you set up each shot. Look for glare and try to find angles to reduce glare. Use your lens hood to keep some of the side and top lighting glare from entering the lens. Sometimes I have to shield the lens using my hand or a hat to keep out glare, but make sure you don't get into the image.
3. Since you have a tripod and can do long exposures, set your ISO to 100. This will help eliminate the noise in most images.
4. Set you camera up to take multiple bracketed exposures (I think the 20D can do this). I usuall set mine up to take three shots, and I set the exposure down a bit.
5. I don't know if you have access to Photoshop based on your comment. If you do, consider setting the camera to RAW. This will give you a nice digital file that contains more detail and information than a JPG file. I'm not much of a technical wiz bang expert on this subject, but I can tell you there is a huge difference. Use Photoshop (PS) to open your RAW image. The editor in PS has settings for exposure, white balance, shadows & highlight compensation, saturation, levels, etc. You can use these settings to make the black areas black, correct colors, etc. Once you've corrected the image too look better in RAW you can save it to TIF (good) or JPG (ok) for additional editing. Even though you changed the settings of the RAW image, the data for the photo is still in tact and can be changed back or re-adjusted without any loss of data. Each time you edit a JPG file you will loose a bit of the origial data.
6. Most of you images appear to have a green cast which is very typical when shooting under metal halide or mercury vapor lighting. This can be corrected by increasing the magenta color level, which I usually do in RAW. Most metal halide lighting will be around 3500K and takes around a +15 or so of magenta to balance out to white.
Ok, enough of my book here. Hope some of this helps!
Mike